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  1. #1

    Default A month on the links of Ireland

    Preface – I posted this thread on another site which has now disappeared. As I’m keen to have my pics, course summaries, and trip review documented somewhere online, I thought I’d post it all again here…


    I’ve just returned from a 4 week trip to Ireland playing some of the best links courses in the world. The Better Half isn’t that keen on hearing my views of these courses so I figured this was as good a place as anywhere to dump these opinions which may be of some use to anyone else planning a trip.

    Having previously made the pilgrimage to Scotland, it was clear very early on that the main difference between Scottish and Irish links courses is the land on which they are situated. Whilst the Scottish links are characterised by rolling fairways with humps, bumps, and hollows, the Irish courses are dominated by massive dunes which you play in between, around or over.

    If you’re a big dunes junkie like me, Ireland is Disneyland. I played a course a day and doubt I’ll have a better month of golf in my life. The courses were amazing, the views spectacular, the locals were friendly, and the food was fried.

    Course rankings with best holes and brief summary:
    1. Royal Portrush (2, 5, 16) A course ready to host next year’s Open Championship; big, open, great green complexes, located in a beautiful little town.
    2. Royal County Down (2, 4, 7, 13) Special place with a great feel. Some fun blind shots early on. Lacks a great closing stretch with a couple of average holes late. Surprisingly small greens.
    3. The European (3, 7, 9, 12-15, 17) Designer/owner/links legend Pat Ruddy has created one of the world’s few modern links classics, a delight.
    4. Portmarnock (18 solid holes, 14 & 15 especially good) Exceptional condition. Most of the character is in the greens. Probably the most consistent 18 holes in terms of design and quality
    5. Lahinch (5, 6, 8, 9, 11, 12, 13) Great atmosphere and great fun. A few ripping blind shots including the par 3 5th. The Sandfield House pitch and putt course just up the road is also worth a visit.
    6. Tralee (3, 6, 8, 12-17) Fantastic course with some great holes on the flatter coastal front 9 before you dive into the massive dunes on the spectacular back nine. The golf is thrilling and the views are stunning.
    7. Ballybunion Old (3, 6, 9, 11, 16, 17) The Grand Old Lady of Irish links golf. More subtle than most of the other courses but a true strategic test. The par 4 11th is possibly the best hole I’ve ever played.
    8. Enniscrone (12, 13, 14, 17) A thoroughly enjoyable and underrated course with big dunes and great green complexes.
    9. Ballyliffin Glashedy (5, 7, 13, 14, 18 Another modern links masterpiece by Pat Ruddy. A ripping set of par 3 holes.
    10. Carne (2, 3, 8, 10, 14, 16 and Kilmore Nine’s 2, 5) 27 holes in some of the biggest and wildest dunes in the country.
    11. Waterville (4, 9, 12, 16, 18 Very highly rated but I was a little underwhelmed. Back 9 is great but most of the front 9 didn’t impress me that much. Still very good.
    12. Rosapenna Sandy Hills (a consistently good 18, maybe 3 & 6 stand out) Pat Ruddy again designing some amazing holes in some amazing dunes
    13. County Sligo (4, 12, 17) Another great course with some spectacular views. The land changes from clifftop, to meadows, to links.
    14. Doonbeg (1, 5, 6, 7, 14, 18 Although perfectly conditioned and possessing quite a few great holes, Doonbeg lacks the feel and atmosphere of most of the other top 20 Irish links courses.
    15. Portstewart (1-8 Probably the best opening shot in the country. Amazing front 9 in huge dunes which overshadows the lesser back 9.
    16. The Island (3, 5, 7, 13, 15) A big reputation and some great holes situated in pure linksland.
    17. Dooks (2, 7, 11) Some fantastic green complexes which truly test your bump-and-run finesse game. Not the flashiest of courses but the locals love it and I can see why.
    18. Ballyliffin Old (15) Overshadowed by the newer and flashier Glashedy course, the Old course is much flatter and gets it character from the undulating fairways which are more in the style of Scottish links.
    19. County Louth (12-15) Some great greens but apart from a 4 hole stretch on the back 9, the course is located on unremarkable land.
    20. Donegal (5) Some nice holes located in the dunes but a lot of the course is based on fairly average meadowlands.
    21. Castlerock (4, 6, 9, The Bann 9) A lot of holes not really in the dunes. They have a third 9 called The Bann which is in the dunes and more fun than the main course.
    22. Ardglass (1-3, 10-12) World’s oldest clubhouse located in an old castle. The first 3 holes where you hit over a rocky coastline are spectacular. Much of the rest of the course is nothing special. Worth the trip after playing RCD.

    Courses that could host The Open tomorrow:
    - Portmarnock
    - Royal Portrush
    - Royal County Down
    - Ballyliffin Glashedy

    Most enjoyable courses - sign me up for membership
    - The European
    - Lahinch
    - Tralee
    - Enniscrone
    - Rosapenna Sandy Hills

    Biggest and best dunes:
    - Rosapenna Sandy Hills
    - Enniscrone
    - Carne
    - Portstewart (front 9)
    - Tralee (back 9)

    Best condition:
    - Doonbeg - a team of leafblowers were blowing the grassed tee paths in a 70kmph gale (how do Trump businesses ever go bust?)
    - Portmarnock (I heard it’s perfect day in, day out)
    - Ballyliffin Glashedy (played it 2 weeks after the Irish Open)

    Best beer:
    - Murphy’s Irish Stout – similar to Guinness but even better

    Driving:
    - Driving is easy; no traffic, no aggro, highways are 120kmph, no speed cameras, only issue is that some of the smaller roads are frightfully narrow

    Caddies:
    - Caddies are probably needed at RCD and Royal Portrush but otherwise, unless you’re trying to set a course record or playing for big money, not really required

    Course difficulty:
    - Between the wind, marram grass, and penal bunkers, scoring is difficult. The only aspect which I generally found easier was putting, with most greens playing slower and with less break than what I am used to. I didn’t keep score but wouldn’t have played to my 5 handicap once.

    Tour planners:
    - I used an Irish golf tour organizer to arrange my tee times, hotels, and car hire. They get reduced rates so would highly recommend. My guy was Marc Dunbar of Dunbar Golf Tours. His communication and advice was solid, and he also assisted with my on-the-run requests whilst I was there. The hotels I stayed in were mostly fantastic.

    Weather:
    - 4 weeks of golf and I only got wet on about 4 days so I was very lucky. But when it rained, by god it rained. Forget your umbrella, the wind makes it impossible. Just pack a good rainsuit, rainhat, wet weather gloves, and whiskey.



    Ardglass 1
    Ardglass 1.jpg


    Ballybunion 15
    Ballybunion 15.jpg


    Ballyliffin Glashedy 7
    Ballyliffin Glashedy 7.jpg

    Carne 10
    Carne 10.jpg


    Carne 11
    Carne 11.jpg
    Last edited by oldmannoodles; 28th November 2018 at 03:51 PM.

  2. #2

    Default

    County Louth 13
    County Louth 13.jpg


    County Sligo 2
    County Sligo 2.jpg


    County Sligo looking back at 17

    County Sligo looking back at 17.jpg

    Doonbeg 5

    Doonbeg 5.jpg

    Doonbeg 7

    Doonbeg 7.jpg

    Doonbeg 14
    Doonbeg 14.jpg

  3. #3

  4. #4

    Default

    RCD 9 fairway
    RCD 9 fairway.jpg


    RCD bunker
    RCD bunker.jpg


    RCD looking back at 10
    RCD looking back at 10 green.jpg


    RCD looking back at 13
    RCD looking back at 13.jpg


    The European 13
    The European 13.jpg

  5. #5

    Default

    Tralee 2
    Tralee 2.jpg


    Tralee 13 from tee
    Tralee 13 from tee.jpg


    Tralee 13 looking back
    Tralee 13 looking back.jpg


    Tralee 16
    Tralee 16.jpg


    Waterville 12 Mass Hole
    Waterville 12 Mass Hole.jpg

  6. #6
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    Sounds amazing mate, what is ball park cost for a trip like this?
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  7. #7
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    So good. Thanks for sharing

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    Awesome! Definitely some bucket list stuff there.
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    Looks like you cracked it for some great weather (albeit its hard to see wind in pics).

    Like you, I have Portrush above RCD, I also have a higher opinion of Portstewart and certainly County Louth. Anyway that's what's makes for discussion.

  10. #10
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    Bloody hell! What a trip!

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    Great stuff - thanks for sharing.

    I agree with your assessment of Portmarnock, and would love to see how the big boys would cope with it in a British Open if the wind got up. The day I played there, the first three holes were straight into a howling gale and brutally difficult (for a hacker like me anyway).

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Minor_Threat View Post
    Sounds amazing mate, what is ball park cost for a trip like this?
    Depending on the following factors, it can be done for anywhere between $15k-$30k:
    - whether you're a single, double or in a group
    - your preferred level of accommodation
    - whether you eat in restaurants or are happy with take-away

    Unfortunately, green fees over there are very expensive. We really have it great here in Australia. Comparable courses over here such as St Andrews Beach ($72), Barnbougle ($104), and Port Fairy ($49) would all attract a green fee of $300+ if they were in Ireland.

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by PerryGroves View Post
    Looks like you cracked it for some great weather (albeit its hard to see wind in pics).

    Like you, I have Portrush above RCD, I also have a higher opinion of Portstewart and certainly County Louth. Anyway that's what's makes for discussion.
    I was indeed very lucky with the weather. It was a warm and dry summer in Ireland this year. Some days were bloody windy though.

    I would take my rankings with a grain of salt. I think you can separate Portrush, County Down, and Portmarnock into the top level, separate Castlerock and Ardglass into a lower level, and then throw a blanket over the other 17 courses in the middle level.

    So many extraneous variables can affect a course rating - the weather, how you played, your mood on the day, your playing partners, how many whiskeys you downed, etc. I would not quibble with anyone who had a different view to mine. Indeed, if I did the same trip next year, I've no doubt my rankings would be different.

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stuart View Post
    I agree with your assessment of Portmarnock, and would love to see how the big boys would cope with it in a British Open if the wind got up. The day I played there, the first three holes were straight into a howling gale and brutally difficult (for a hacker like me anyway).
    Portmarnock seems to get forgotten in the best course debate between County Down and Portrush. I think it is right up there with these two, and would not be surprised if it hosted the Open someday. I guess it is up to the membership - I played County Down with a high profile and 'in-the-know' member who said that the course would definitely have hosted at least one Open but for the fact that the membership were dead against doing so.

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    Excellent post!

    Played in NI in 2011 and had RCD in front of Portrush, but that was before the new holes. Both great tracks. Thought Portstewart was pretty average, along with Ardglass. You are definitely right about how good the golf is here for the money.

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    I knew there was an Ireland golf thread somewhere, and I found it.

    Readers may be interested in a new golf show I just watched on Kayo called Worlds Greatest Golf Holes. Episode 1 had Paul McGinley and another guy playing a few holes in Ireland, including Royal County Down.

    The website suggests they will only be in Ireland. Strange definition of 'world', but it doesn't matter.

    Some fabulous golf scenery porn, and a pretty good way to spend half an hour. i assume there will be more episodes.
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    Yet Royal County Down is not in Ireland either.

    Thanks for the hint on the show, i am going there in July for a 2nd time, staying at Portrush and Galgorm castle.
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    I really enjoyed Ballyliffen when I was over there.
    RCD was probably the hardest course I have played anywhere.
    Portstewart was great too (especially the front nine).
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    Quote Originally Posted by markTHEblake View Post
    Yet Royal County Down is not in Ireland either.Thanks for the hint on the show, i am going there in July for a 2nd time, staying at Portrush and Galgorm castle.
    RCD not in Ireland how???
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    Quote Originally Posted by rickie prowler View Post
    RCD not in Ireland how???
    Royal County Down, 36 Golf Links Rd, Newcastle BT33 0AN, United Kingdom
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    Quote Originally Posted by markTHEblake View Post
    Royal County Down, 36 Golf Links Rd, Newcastle BT33 0AN, United Kingdom
    United Kingdom includes Ireland, Scotlan, Wales and England
    RCD is in Northern Ireland

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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by rickie prowler View Post
    RCD not in Ireland how???
    What would you know about Ireland?

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    The course is on the island of Ireland, in Northern Ireland of the United Kingdom, but not in the Republic of Ireland. I hope that clears things up.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rickie prowler View Post
    RCD not in Ireland how???
    Quote Originally Posted by markTHEblake View Post
    Royal County Down, 36 Golf Links Rd, Newcastle BT33 0AN, United Kingdom
    Given Rory was born up the road (in NI), how did he play for Ireland in the Olympics?


 

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