Preface – I posted this thread on another site which has now disappeared. As I’m keen to have my pics, course summaries, and trip review documented somewhere online, I thought I’d post it all again here…
I’ve just returned from a 4 week trip to Ireland playing some of the best links courses in the world. The Better Half isn’t that keen on hearing my views of these courses so I figured this was as good a place as anywhere to dump these opinions which may be of some use to anyone else planning a trip.
Having previously made the pilgrimage to Scotland, it was clear very early on that the main difference between Scottish and Irish links courses is the land on which they are situated. Whilst the Scottish links are characterised by rolling fairways with humps, bumps, and hollows, the Irish courses are dominated by massive dunes which you play in between, around or over.
If you’re a big dunes junkie like me, Ireland is Disneyland. I played a course a day and doubt I’ll have a better month of golf in my life. The courses were amazing, the views spectacular, the locals were friendly, and the food was fried.
Course rankings with best holes and brief summary:
1. Royal Portrush (2, 5, 16) A course ready to host next year’s Open Championship; big, open, great green complexes, located in a beautiful little town.
2. Royal County Down (2, 4, 7, 13) Special place with a great feel. Some fun blind shots early on. Lacks a great closing stretch with a couple of average holes late. Surprisingly small greens.
3. The European (3, 7, 9, 12-15, 17) Designer/owner/links legend Pat Ruddy has created one of the world’s few modern links classics, a delight.
4. Portmarnock (18 solid holes, 14 & 15 especially good) Exceptional condition. Most of the character is in the greens. Probably the most consistent 18 holes in terms of design and quality
5. Lahinch (5, 6, 8, 9, 11, 12, 13) Great atmosphere and great fun. A few ripping blind shots including the par 3 5th. The Sandfield House pitch and putt course just up the road is also worth a visit.
6. Tralee (3, 6, 8, 12-17) Fantastic course with some great holes on the flatter coastal front 9 before you dive into the massive dunes on the spectacular back nine. The golf is thrilling and the views are stunning.
7. Ballybunion Old (3, 6, 9, 11, 16, 17) The Grand Old Lady of Irish links golf. More subtle than most of the other courses but a true strategic test. The par 4 11th is possibly the best hole I’ve ever played.
8. Enniscrone (12, 13, 14, 17) A thoroughly enjoyable and underrated course with big dunes and great green complexes.
9. Ballyliffin Glashedy (5, 7, 13, 14, 18 Another modern links masterpiece by Pat Ruddy. A ripping set of par 3 holes.
10. Carne (2, 3, 8, 10, 14, 16 and Kilmore Nine’s 2, 5) 27 holes in some of the biggest and wildest dunes in the country.
11. Waterville (4, 9, 12, 16, 18 Very highly rated but I was a little underwhelmed. Back 9 is great but most of the front 9 didn’t impress me that much. Still very good.
12. Rosapenna Sandy Hills (a consistently good 18, maybe 3 & 6 stand out) Pat Ruddy again designing some amazing holes in some amazing dunes
13. County Sligo (4, 12, 17) Another great course with some spectacular views. The land changes from clifftop, to meadows, to links.
14. Doonbeg (1, 5, 6, 7, 14, 18 Although perfectly conditioned and possessing quite a few great holes, Doonbeg lacks the feel and atmosphere of most of the other top 20 Irish links courses.
15. Portstewart (1-8 Probably the best opening shot in the country. Amazing front 9 in huge dunes which overshadows the lesser back 9.
16. The Island (3, 5, 7, 13, 15) A big reputation and some great holes situated in pure linksland.
17. Dooks (2, 7, 11) Some fantastic green complexes which truly test your bump-and-run finesse game. Not the flashiest of courses but the locals love it and I can see why.
18. Ballyliffin Old (15) Overshadowed by the newer and flashier Glashedy course, the Old course is much flatter and gets it character from the undulating fairways which are more in the style of Scottish links.
19. County Louth (12-15) Some great greens but apart from a 4 hole stretch on the back 9, the course is located on unremarkable land.
20. Donegal (5) Some nice holes located in the dunes but a lot of the course is based on fairly average meadowlands.
21. Castlerock (4, 6, 9, The Bann 9) A lot of holes not really in the dunes. They have a third 9 called The Bann which is in the dunes and more fun than the main course.
22. Ardglass (1-3, 10-12) World’s oldest clubhouse located in an old castle. The first 3 holes where you hit over a rocky coastline are spectacular. Much of the rest of the course is nothing special. Worth the trip after playing RCD.
Courses that could host The Open tomorrow:
- Portmarnock
- Royal Portrush
- Royal County Down
- Ballyliffin Glashedy
Most enjoyable courses - sign me up for membership
- The European
- Lahinch
- Tralee
- Enniscrone
- Rosapenna Sandy Hills
Biggest and best dunes:
- Rosapenna Sandy Hills
- Enniscrone
- Carne
- Portstewart (front 9)
- Tralee (back 9)
Best condition:
- Doonbeg - a team of leafblowers were blowing the grassed tee paths in a 70kmph gale (how do Trump businesses ever go bust?)
- Portmarnock (I heard it’s perfect day in, day out)
- Ballyliffin Glashedy (played it 2 weeks after the Irish Open)
Best beer:
- Murphy’s Irish Stout – similar to Guinness but even better
Driving:
- Driving is easy; no traffic, no aggro, highways are 120kmph, no speed cameras, only issue is that some of the smaller roads are frightfully narrow
Caddies:
- Caddies are probably needed at RCD and Royal Portrush but otherwise, unless you’re trying to set a course record or playing for big money, not really required
Course difficulty:
- Between the wind, marram grass, and penal bunkers, scoring is difficult. The only aspect which I generally found easier was putting, with most greens playing slower and with less break than what I am used to. I didn’t keep score but wouldn’t have played to my 5 handicap once.
Tour planners:
- I used an Irish golf tour organizer to arrange my tee times, hotels, and car hire. They get reduced rates so would highly recommend. My guy was Marc Dunbar of Dunbar Golf Tours. His communication and advice was solid, and he also assisted with my on-the-run requests whilst I was there. The hotels I stayed in were mostly fantastic.
Weather:
- 4 weeks of golf and I only got wet on about 4 days so I was very lucky. But when it rained, by god it rained. Forget your umbrella, the wind makes it impossible. Just pack a good rainsuit, rainhat, wet weather gloves, and whiskey.
Ardglass 1
Ardglass 1.jpg
Ballybunion 15
Ballybunion 15.jpg
Ballyliffin Glashedy 7
Ballyliffin Glashedy 7.jpg
Carne 10
Carne 10.jpg
Carne 11
Carne 11.jpg