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  1. #401
    Senior Member Touring Pro (European Tour)
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    Checked heaps of places for a CR2 battery like Dicksmith, BigW, Woolies, Officeworks and several Chemists with no luck, ended up having to go to Jaycar.
    WITB
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  2. #402
    Senior Member Multiple Major Winner
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    Quote Originally Posted by goonie View Post
    Checked heaps of places for a CR2 battery like Dicksmith, BigW, Woolies, Officeworks and several Chemists with no luck, ended up having to go to Jaycar.
    EBay is your best bet. There is a place I got them from the UK for about $5 landed. I also posted some rechargeable a fee posts back.

  3. #403
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    Quote Originally Posted by goonie View Post
    Checked heaps of places for a CR2 battery like Dicksmith, BigW, Woolies, Officeworks and several Chemists with no luck, ended up having to go to Jaycar.
    Total cost of battery now $17.95 with petrol factored in.




  4. #404
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrbluu View Post
    EBay is your best bet. There is a place I got them from the UK for about $5 landed. I also posted some rechargeable a fee posts back.
    Jaycar had them for 4.95. A battery is a battery is a battery.

  5. #405
    Senior Member Touring Pro (European Tour)
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    Only $10 for 2 batteries and a slight detour on the way home from work yesterday, plus a few free phone calls and a bit of walking around the city.
    WITB
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  6. #406
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    A hell of a lot of work for a $5 battery.

    I imagine a car battery is a month long project?




  7. #407
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrbluu View Post
    My battery was lasting about 4-6months, but i laser everything including chips.
    Hello Tourfit.




  8. #408
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Canuck View Post
    A hell of a lot of work for a $5 battery. I imagine a car battery is a month long project?
    Haha
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  9. #409

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    Battery World have them for about $5.


  10. #410
    Ozgolf Mod Major Winner
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    I grabbed a couple from Jaycar on Thur night on my way home from work. $9.90 seems just fine by me.

  11. #411
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    Free parking?
    bio cell+ big stick - fly z+ 3W - b'bertha 4h - srickson 545/745
    46-50 RTX, 56-60 md2 - tank cruiser 38" count balance
    delilah smiley driver and MAGNETIC putter cover
    sun mountain bag C130S - clicgear & knob

  12. #412
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Canuck View Post
    A hell of a lot of work for a $5 battery.

    I imagine a car battery is a month long project?
    Well I did want to use keep using my rangefinder, and I needed it for this weekend.

    The last car battery was about 20mins actually, battery died at the shops, walked 50m to Kmart, grabbed a battery and swapped it out in the car park.

    So if you have troubles finding something do you just call it quits?
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  13. #413
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    Big W had them on line for $3 each. I bought three. Postage was $9
    They arrived the next day.

    Chopperlink

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  14. #414
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    Quote Originally Posted by goonie View Post
    Well I did want to use keep using my rangefinder, and I needed it for this weekend.

    The last car battery was about 20mins actually, battery died at the shops, walked 50m to Kmart, grabbed a battery and swapped it out in the car park.

    So if you have troubles finding something do you just call it quits?
    Why didn't you just go straight to jaycar?

  15. #415
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    I havn't read all the posts on this thread, but back to the topic tittle, why don't people just use the 150m markers, or the 100 m markers. If you stuck halfway, use 125m's, or estimate it from there. The most you will be out is 10m's unless your guide dog can't do sign language. If you playing from under 100m's, work it out as a percentage from where your ball is. If you can see the the 150m marker in the distance, use your 3 wood.

  16. #416
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    Quote Originally Posted by magman View Post
    I havn't read all the posts on this thread, but back to the topic tittle, why don't people just use the 150m markers, or the 100 m markers. If you stuck halfway, use 125m's, or estimate it from there. The most you will be out is 10m's unless your guide dog can't do sign language. If you playing from under 100m's, work it out as a percentage from where your ball is. If you can see the the 150m marker in the distance, use your 3 wood.

    I can't say for everyone, but I got shit depth perception. I can guess or work out a distance but I feel more comfortable know the exact distance I have to hit it.

  17. #417
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    Quote Originally Posted by magman View Post
    I havn't read all the posts on this thread, but back to the topic tittle, why don't people just use the 150m markers, or the 100 m markers. If you stuck halfway, use 125m's, or estimate it from there. The most you will be out is 10m's unless your guide dog can't do sign language. If you playing from under 100m's, work it out as a percentage from where your ball is. If you can see the the 150m marker in the distance, use your 3 wood.
    I do not want 10 metre putts all the time hence the rangefinder.

  18. #418
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    A 150m marker doesn't give me distance to carry a hazard. And on a course with 50m long or wide greens its a three club difference front to back and side to side depending on the angle in.

  19. #419
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    Not to mention that plenty of 150 and 100m markers aren't accurate in my experience, ditto on plenty of sprinkler head distances as well. Then you have the holes where the hole is blind from the fairway. And we have only talked approach shots so far. Show me how you work out distance to that run out hazard?, and where does that fairway end on that short dogleg? How far to carry that hazard?, or what is the lay up distance short of it? Then you have the daily variations on a tight driving hole, tees forward and following wind can be several clubs different to tees back and into the teeth.

    But the biggest and best benefit imo, is there is no doubt about the club in your hand being the right one for the shot. That alone is worth the price of admission.

  20. #420
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    Decide which club and line to take from the tee, depending distances to front of hazards and carry distances (for strong hitters or me on par 3s).
    You don't get me. I'm part of the Union.

  21. #421
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yossarian View Post
    Why didn't you just go straight to jaycar?
    I normally only drive into work on a Friday and could only get to Jaycar if I was driving home, not via my Bus, so I went for a walk one lunch time to check out a few nearby shops and chemists as suggested in a few threads, and made a few calls. Really not a big deal, or that much time spent, I just wanted to make sure I got a battery for the masters game today as I haven't played the course and don't have a map for my GPS.
    WITB
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  22. #422
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dotty View Post
    Decide which club and line to take from the tee, depending distances to front of hazards and carry distances (for strong hitters or me on par 3s).
    Dotty - its easy to work out your yardages. If its 150, its driver. Each club is a 10m increment down after that, so your full sand wedge goes 30.

    Chopperlink

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  23. #423
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    Also useful to check how far the group in front are from the tee, so you don't have to say "I think they're far enough" and find you were wrong...

  24. #424

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    I got a shock when I played with Bluu, and he was using his laser on 10m chips.


  25. #425
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    Quote Originally Posted by backintheswing View Post
    I got a shock when I played with Bluu, and he was using his laser on 10m chips.
    #overkill #timewaster #losttheplot


 

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