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  1. #126
    Ozgolf Mod Major Winner
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    Default

    Thought I'd ask this and see if anyone has an idea...



    I've got a 9015D head but there's something inside the hosel that is preventing the shaft from going in the full insertion depth. I think the pic above shows the extent of the protrusion.

    I haven't heated it yet to see whether it's just epoxy that's rehardened...is there anything else that it could be, or has anyone come across anything similar prior to reshafting a head?

  2. #127
    Ozgolf Mod Major Winner
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    Default

    Never mind...it's epoxy. I found a thin enough chisel in the shed and managed to work it free.

    Carry on.

  3. #128
    Victorious Captain Golf Hall of Fame Inductee
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    KJ, just pour a little acetone or nail polish remover in and leave a while, it will be clean in no time!
    I would have left it and given Virge something to do......

  4. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by KristianJ View Post
    Never mind...it's epoxy. I found a thin enough chisel in the shed and managed to work it free.

    Carry on.
    Drill it out

  5. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by virge666 View Post
    Drill it out
    Exactly, 5 second job.
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  6. #131
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    I've reached the point (like many other hoes, I'm sure) where it seems (at least, this is how I'm trying to justify it to myself) more cost effective to purchase club assembly tools for personal use, as opposed to continually paying someone else. Anyway, I went a bit crazy on the Golfsmith website recently and purchased the following (well, these were the main purchases anyway):

    — Loft/Lie Bending Machine
    — Bending Bars
    — Digital Swingweight Scale
    — Shaft Extractor
    — Bench Ruler

    What else do I need? I was thinking of the following:

    — Butane Torch
    — Bench Saw

    Maybe even a mini van to create the "mini tour van"...

    When I assembled my previous set of irons, I had minimal tools (pipe cutter, ruler, shaft clamp, and vices), and they turned out better than expected. As a result, I'm excited to build my next set with the proper tools.

  7. #132
    Senior Member Touring Pro (European Tour)
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    Nice one Ducky. Am looking at buying the same things from Golfsmith to start the tinkering process.




    The ultimate judge of your swing is the flight of the ball. Ben Hogan

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  8. #133
    Admin Team Golf Hall of Fame Inductee
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    Get a heat gun, not a butane torch.





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  9. #134
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    Bench saw for sure.
    Tip weights.

  10. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeteyD View Post
    Get a heat gun, not a butane torch.
    Get both, as you will need a butane torch to work on older clubs (old Pings for example, they are a bastard)
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  11. #136
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    How much did all that gear set you back Ducky?
    Callaway RAZR-fit XTreme (9.5*,S) ,MATRIX 7M3 Black Tie X |TAYLORMADE RBZ Tour Spoon 13*, UST VTS Silver 60X SPX TOUR |TAYLORMADE RBZ Rescue 19*, UST VTS Silver 75HS SPX TOUR | PING i20 (4-W), Nippon N.S. Pro Modus 3 X | Nike Vr50.10, 54.12 and 58.10| NIKE Method 001 34"

  12. #137
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    Heat gun for sure....

    see if you can get the LPG attachements for removing irons... otherwise butane or PROpane is better,

    ferrules... lots of them
    2 inch masking tape
    air compressor
    hairspray #5 hold - strongest

  13. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by virge666 View Post
    hairspray #5 hold - strongest
    That's lubricant for blowing on grips, right?
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  14. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeftyHoges View Post
    That's lubricant for blowing on grips, right?
    No - it is for looking good whilst you are blowing on grips.

    Blow it like Beckham.

    Plus you dont need double sided tape with hairspray... the adhesive holds like shit to a blanket

  15. #140
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    Does anyone need a Pure gripping gun attachment thingy for their compressor? I have a spare. $25.

  16. #141
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    Ill take it mate

  17. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeteyD View Post
    Get a heat gun, not a butane torch.
    I thought that the heat gun took too long to break down the epoxy?

    Quote Originally Posted by timinsa View Post
    Bench saw for sure.
    Tip weights.
    Oh yeah, good suggestion. I got some lead tape to add weight to the club-heads, but I'm going to purchase some Wishon 555M irons, which has weight ports built into the hosels.

    Quote Originally Posted by LeftyHoges View Post
    Get both, as you will need a butane torch to work on older clubs (old Pings for example, they are a bastard)
    Why is that? Because the metal takes longer to heat up on those clubs or the epoxy breaks down at a higher temperature?

    Quote Originally Posted by Puji View Post
    How much did all that gear set you back Ducky?
    The whole order was just under $1500 AUD delivered, which wasn't too bad considering I got the ultimate/professional series tools. Typically, your order would be less than this if you just buy the tools with no accessories.

    Quote Originally Posted by virge666 View Post
    see if you can get the LPG attachements for removing irons...
    What are LPG attachments?

    Quote Originally Posted by virge666 View Post
    Plus you dont need double sided tape with hairspray...
    So what replaces the adhesive on the double sided tape? The hair spray or is the rubber on the grips tacky enough?

    Quote Originally Posted by timinsa View Post
    Does anyone need a Pure gripping gun attachment thingy for their compressor? I have a spare. $25.
    If you have another spare, let me know. I was looking into getting one. I keep hearing about Pure grips and the feedback seems to be positive. However, I just can't imagine anything being better in humid conditions than the cord multi-compound grips.

    Sorry for all the questions. Are there any recommended books or DVDs? I was thinking of getting Tom Wishon's book "Common Sense Clubfitting", but I prefer watching videos as opposed to reading.

  18. #143
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    rather than start a new thread I thought this would be an appropriate place to ask the following:

    I have two shafts that I was going to use in a 3 wood and driver but wanted to check whether they had previously been tip trimmed before doing any more lopping off.

    - first is a UST Axivcore Red
    - second is a UST Proforce V2 75

    I guess the normal way to check this is to measure to a known point on a raw version of the same shaft. (Both of these have an identifiable change in colour from yellow to silver.) If this isn't the best way or there is an alternative resource for this info online I'm happy to be advised.

    Cheers.

  19. #144
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    Matt if you check the manufacturers website, it will indicate the details of the tip. If you have some calipers, you will be able to measure the tip length and be able to determine if the shaft has in fact been tipped
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  20. #145
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    Ta Chris.

    I don't have calipers at the house in Brisbane but I have a shaft guide template from golfworks. (no idea of its precision though)

    Based on the metal template and using the stated 4" tip for both shafts I get that one has been tipped 2 1/2" and the other is 2". This seems a lot for the current length of them so I was now wondering how accurate the template is likely to be and also how close to the 4" tip these are usually manufactured at?

  21. #146
    Senior Member Multiple Major Winner
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky View Post
    I've reached the point (like many other hoes, I'm sure) where it seems (at least, this is how I'm trying to justify it to myself) more cost effective to purchase club assembly tools for personal use, as opposed to continually paying someone else. Anyway, I went a bit crazy on the Golfsmith website recently and purchased the following (well, these were the main purchases anyway):

    — Loft/Lie Bending Machine
    — Bending Bars
    — Digital Swingweight Scale
    — Shaft Extractor
    — Bench Ruler

    What else do I need? I was thinking of the following:

    — Butane Torch
    — Bench Saw

    Maybe even a mini van to create the "mini tour van"...

    When I assembled my previous set of irons, I had minimal tools (pipe cutter, ruler, shaft clamp, and vices), and they turned out better than expected. As a result, I'm excited to build my next set with the proper tools.
    I think I'm getting tool envy....shit that didn't come out right. How much was delivery on all that stuff as I was looking at getting a similar setup.

    Thanks.
    Last edited by mrbluu; 9th September 2012 at 06:36 AM.

  22. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by kingslayer33 View Post
    - first is a UST Axivcore Red
    - second is a UST Proforce V2 75
    Measuring from the tip get back to me on how much yellow paint you have on both shafts.
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  23. #148
    Senior Member Touring Pro (Nationwide Tour)
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    Cheers TNO.

    AXIVcore is 23 7/8" from tip to end of yellow.
    Proforce is 19 15/16".

  24. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by kingslayer33 View Post
    Cheers TNO.

    AXIVcore is 23 7/8" from tip to end of yellow.
    Proforce is 19 15/16".
    Your Proforce 75 is untipped.

    Your Axivcore Red is tipped 5/8".

    Standard tipping for a 3 wood is 1" for the both Proforce and Axivcore.
    WITB
    TRS2 9* Velocore Blue 7s
    G430 9* Ventus Velo 7s
    Titleist TSI2 15* DI7s

    Ping G425 19* hybrid Accra TZ6
    Tour Edge XCG 24* hybrid Altus
    Srixon ZX5 MKII 6-pw
    Ping Stealth 2.0 50*SS, 54*SS, 58SS/TS*
    TP Mills Tour Fleetwood

  25. #150
    Senior Member Touring Pro (Nationwide Tour)
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    Grip size

    I have some .600 grips but the mizuno site tells me my shafts (NS Pro 1150GH Tour) & all others that they use for the MP-59 except TT are .580 core.

    I like 3 layers under my grip.So,if my research is correct,i need 2 layers to begin with to bring the grips back to standard & then another 3 for my own personal liking ?


 

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