The "Ask a Clubmaker" Thread

[Daves]

Rob the 2 are different outcomes. Spining will generally find weld point in a shaft. Floing will find the NBP (Neutral Bend Point)

You are entirely correct with query though. The Spine and Flo point can, and often are, in different orientations on the shaft.

It usually comes down to which camp you sit in. Some firmly believe in Spining, whereas others are Flo people.

Personally I would Spine a steel shaft and Flo a graphite. My belief is these methods lend themselves to the differing shaft materials i.e. steel and graphite.

Of late, with the uplift in the shaft manufacturing process, and generally the material used in the better quality shafts, either Spining or Floing become less relevant. I've attempted to Flo top of the line graphite shafts previously and it's not uncommon for the shaft to have multiple NPD's. In this scenario it usually comes down to personal preference of shaft orientation i.e. graphics up or down.

That's my experience anyway

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x 2. As per the video link I posted, spining first can help get the Flo done quicker. But sometimes there is little relationship at all.

[Coldtopper]

Not quite CT, although i did pick that SW scale up for Lefty some time ago 😊

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it looks like he was in your shed CC

[chappy1970]

Mitch that is neater than mine, I'm getting better though

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[RobNewy]

Cheers guys.

Much appreciated

[RobNewy]

Awesome.
Thanks Dave.

So the Spining just speeds up the FLOing process.

I need a shed!

[LeftyHoges]

The Club Butt sits under that end piece on the right. The Weight underneath is moved until the beam is in balance. The White line on the Weight gives you your reading. I am not sure what the 0 - 22 scale on the other end is for though?

UNDER it. **** me, I'm a doofus. Thanks Daves!

Sell it

I probably would have until 2 posts earlier than this one.

You lie a club across that end and get total weighty maybe, cold be in multiple of 10's.... 1+100gm?? Mine has total weight in grams at that end.

That would certainly explain the other indentation in the holder thing. Cheers mate.

You may have buried the lead. Is that a set of right handed shovels? Swing weight scale is the least of your problems

I'm coming to VIC champs off 25 right handed, and will toast all your arses. Ned won't know what hit him.

They do look pretty sweet though...

it looks like you are cutting Chappys lunch?

There's a lazy 400km between us. I think we can operate independently without stepping on each others toes. His customer base has the potential to be in the thousands. Mine doesn't hit double digits!

Not quite CT, although i did pick that SW scale up for Lefty some time ago

And I'm only just getting around to using it now!

Mitch that is neater than mine, I'm getting better though

. Probably best I don't swing the camera around. Hell of a mess behind me.

[Johnny Canuck]

UNDER it. **** me, I'm a doofus. Thanks Daves!



I probably would have until 2 posts earlier than this one.



That would certainly explain the other indentation in the holder thing. Cheers mate.



I'm coming to VIC champs off 25 right handed, and will toast all your arses. Ned won't know what hit him.

They do look pretty sweet though...





There's a lazy 400km between us. I think we can operate independently without stepping on each others toes. His customer base has the potential to be in the thousands. Mine doesn't hit double digits!



And I'm only just getting around to using it now!



. Probably best I don't swing the camera around. Hell of a mess behind me.

Wow. Much Ashby.

[timah!]

You lie a club across that end and get total weighty maybe, cold be in multiple of 10's.... 1+100gm??
Mine has total weight in grams at that end.

This. Along the scale = SW, across the scale will be total weight.


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[Jazz18]

Just put it in label down and I'm happy. Can't see with the modern shaft manufacturing processes in place these days that spining or floing is going to do anything for me. Besides, in the videos I've seen, the shafts oscillate fine for the first cycle and then change from there. If it oscillates fine the first time, then that's all I need in my golf swing. I'm not going to be making the shaft go through multiple loading and unloading cycles during my swing so I just don't think it's necessary. Maybe in days gone by, but as Chappy said, perhaps less relevant now.

[benno_r]

Just put it in label down and I'm happy. Can't see with the modern shaft manufacturing processes in place these days that spining or floing is going to do anything for me. Besides, in the videos I've seen, the shafts oscillate fine for the first cycle and then change from there. If it oscillates fine the first time, then that's all I need in my golf swing. I'm not going to be making the shaft go through multiple loading and unloading cycles during my swing so I just don't think it's necessary. Maybe in days gone by, but as Chappy said, perhaps less relevant now.

Stop making sense and/or being logical!

[Jazz18]

Stop making sense and/or being logical!

There's always a first time for everything mate!

[Jazz18]

Quick question for the experts out there. I got a driver head that had some graphite what left in it when I bought it. I've drilled it out but how can you tell when you've hit the hosel cap or you've still got glue in the bottom of the hosel? The drill is about 40mm into the head but there is still something white at the bottom of the hosel. Looks like plastic but may not be. Definitely soft to drill. When I came to the end of drilling out the shaft there was a distinctive "let go" of the pressure required if that makes sense. Any help appreciated thanks.

[TheNuclearOne]

At 40mm you'd very very likely be at the hosel plug. Deeper bores than that are pretty rare now.

[chappy1970]

I agree with Jon, the "Let go" will likely be the drill bit entering the club head cavity

[Jazz18]

Thanks fellas. I thought it likely was the bottom of the hosel but I'm pretty confident it hasn't gone through into the cavity. Is the bottom of the hosel likely to be made of metal? There is still some soft white material at the bottom of the hosel but I can't tell what it is.

[chappy1970]

Rich the soft white material is the hosel plug

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[Jazz18]

Rich the soft white material is the hosel plug

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Cool mate thanks. I thought it was so I'm glad I stopped drilling. Thanks again for the help.

[chappy1970]

For future reference, it's no big deal if it gets damaged or removed. It can always be replaced. It's only there to stop crap falling into the head cavity and rattling around.

Removing it, is also the only way to add hot melt to a head if there are no other access ports.

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[Jazz18]

For future reference, it's no big deal if it gets damaged or removed. It can always be replaced. It's only there to stop crap falling into the head cavity and rattling around.

Removing it, is also the only way to add hot melt to a head if there are no other access ports.

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Ok cool. Wasn't sure if I could replace it or not so good to know if I have damaged or want to hot melt in future. Thanks again Chappy.

[TheNuclearOne]

Just to add to what Chappy is saying be damn careful not to drll the hosel plug into the head. Absolutely can happen. If not taken out your new build will have a most impressive rattle. A lot of hosel plugs can be tin too.

[Jazz18]

Just to add to what Chappy is saying be damn careful not to drll the hosel plug into the head. Absolutely can happen. If not taken out your new build will have a most impressive rattle. A lot of hosel plugs can be tin too.

Cool, thanks John. I have done that already on another head, but I was much more careful this time. It's definitely still intact so should be able to just give the hosel a clean now and glue in the shaft. Thank again for the help guys.

[Daves]

I have done little work with Putter shafts before, just the odd kit construct to predetermined specs. I may want to change a couple of Cure Putter shafts (change some offsets to straight). Are Putter shafts typically just iron shafts or similar, would say a straight parallel be an option, assuming I have the right tip size? The putter shafts I have seen listed on GW seem to be typically around the 120 gram mark.

[benno_r]

Dave, i have experimented with iron shafts, wedge shafts, hybrid shafts and putter shafts.

The only one that feels right are putter shafts, as once you trim 8" off a parallel iron shaft they are too light.

I like the fst putter shaft for parallel, and true temper stepless for taper.

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[Daves]

Dave, i have experimented with iron shafts, wedge shafts, hybrid shafts and putter shafts.

The only one that feels right are putter shafts, as once you trim 8" off a parallel iron shaft they are too light.

I like the fst putter shaft for parallel, and true temper stepless for taper.

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Thanks Ben.

[benno_r]

These shafts arrived today and I tackled them this afternoon. I tried a Soldering iron first. It worked on the first one, but then I had a fail with the next one when the tip weight broke off in the Vice! I then used the Heat Gun and Vice and most came out fairly easily, but a couple more were stubborn. Some careful trimming and filing and I finally had a enough purchase to pull the remaining ones. As I was cleaning up the shafts, I found that there was lots of epoxy a fair way up the shaft (3" to 5" of it), which precluded any chance of blowing or ramroding them out, and was probably why they were harder than expected to remove.

Now to fit them (Program 130s Tapers) to some heads!

Thanks all for your suggestions.

Cheers Dave

Rightio, a follow up to this. When I made my yammies up, I used some low profile brass tip weights in there. Pulled them, and now I am stuck with this:



Tried to drill it out, but brass being brass, is hard as hell. Was drilling in straight, but the weight was deflecting the drill bit, and this happened:



Being so thin on the end, I gripped (just) with some vice grips, heated the weight, then used my puller against the vice grips. All it achieved was pulling the head off the tip weight.

Was thinking 2 options:
1. A pencil flame to heat the brass weight, and driving out with a Ramrod. Or;
2. Drilling and tapping a 3mm deep m2 thread, screw in a screw, and pull against that?

Option 1 worries me, as shaft diameter is about 2.5mm (I drilled the shaft tips to 3.5mm to accept the weights - deepest about 10mm deep).



Using the lead version now, so no real issues drilling them out.

Cheers,
Ben