Donate Now
Goal amount for the next month: 1000 AUD, Received: 0 AUD (0%)
**** Please donate to the Toowoomba Hospital Foundation as part of the Leon Treadwell Memorial Charity Day ****
Note: If you would like to avoid Paypal from getting their cut, either make a paypal payment to andyp@ozgolf.net as a "Gift", or PM AndyP for OZgolf's bank account details.
-
15th August 2018 01:50 PM
#4476
Senior Member
Order of Merit winner
GMB, I'm pretty sure I have some that are in excess of 1". I'll confirm when I get a chance
Srixon 565 - 10.5 deg stiff Miyazaki
Srixon 565 - 15 deg stiff Miyazaki
Srixon H45 - 90gr Stiff Whiteboard
Fourteen DI w/ SPB Stiff
Bridgestone J15CB 4-PW SPB's Stiff
Fourteen MT28 TS Spec 53 & 58 DG Spinner
Piretti Cortino
GOLF Link
BENCH
Drivers/Fairways/Hybrids
Yamaha v202 9.5* - Tourspec x flex
Sonartec SS-03
V Steel 3wd
V Steel 4wd Attas T3 8x
Titleist 585h 19*
Irons
Mizuno MP33 3-P
Putters
Ping Anser, Anser 2, Scottsdale
Wedges
Cleveland 54
Fourteen 48
-
15th August 2018 02:14 PM
#4477
Senior Member
Touring Pro (Nationwide Tour)
Recently bought a hybrid shaft (0.370) for my driving iron (0.355)
What is the general consensus around here? Shaving down or to bore the hosel?
Some of the clubmakers on golfwrx say shaving down is fine
1. You are only taking away 0.015 from the first 0.5" of the tip
2. Most graphite shafts start out as 0.370 anyway?
-
15th August 2018 02:20 PM
#4478
Originally Posted by
Wenz
Recently bought a hybrid shaft (0.370) for my driving iron (0.355)
What is the general consensus around here? Shaving down or to bore the hosel?
Some of the clubmakers on golfwrx say shaving down is fine
1. You are only taking away 0.015 from the first 0.5" of the tip
2. Most graphite shafts start out as 0.370 anyway?
Shaving down the shaft is OK. But just do it very slowly, bit by bit.
-
15th August 2018 02:40 PM
#4479
Senior Member
Order of Merit winner
I agree with Rich, boring out the hosel is an extreme, and usually unnecessary exercise. Slowly narrowing the tip size is easier and less prone to disaster.
It's also typically something you can do in your own workshop with sandpaper or a linisher for the more experienced, boring the hosel will require the appropriate stablising jig, to ensure the bore is centred
Srixon 565 - 10.5 deg stiff Miyazaki
Srixon 565 - 15 deg stiff Miyazaki
Srixon H45 - 90gr Stiff Whiteboard
Fourteen DI w/ SPB Stiff
Bridgestone J15CB 4-PW SPB's Stiff
Fourteen MT28 TS Spec 53 & 58 DG Spinner
Piretti Cortino
GOLF Link
BENCH
Drivers/Fairways/Hybrids
Yamaha v202 9.5* - Tourspec x flex
Sonartec SS-03
V Steel 3wd
V Steel 4wd Attas T3 8x
Titleist 585h 19*
Irons
Mizuno MP33 3-P
Putters
Ping Anser, Anser 2, Scottsdale
Wedges
Cleveland 54
Fourteen 48
-
15th August 2018 03:11 PM
#4480
Senior Member
Major Winner
what chappy said. no way are your boring something out unless you have proper workshop.
sanding down is also cheaper when you get it wrong.
-
16th August 2018 08:07 AM
#4481
Senior Member
Touring Pro (Japanese Tour)
Originally Posted by
chappy1970
GMB, I'm pretty sure I have some that are in excess of 1". I'll confirm when I get a chance
Thanks Chappy, no rush as I glued the shaft up last night and have pushed the ferrule all the way up to cover the poor tip prep and have put a small piece of heat shrink to cover the gap between the ferrule and the head.
It's not pretty but it will work so I can try out the shaft *touch wood* this weekend
"SHANKS FOR THE MEMORIES"
-
16th August 2018 10:08 AM
#4482
Depending on how much gap you have, you can take an old ferrule and shave off some flakes and mix in acetone to make a paste. then rub it in the crack then turn the ferrule down. Or, you can just stick an old ferrule in some acetone, but dont submerge it too much so you can hold the top of the ferrule. the bottom will melt and get soft. then take and rub in the crack.
-
16th August 2018 10:10 AM
#4483
Originally Posted by
Forecaddie
Depending on how much gap you have, you can take an old ferrule and shave off some flakes and mix in acetone to make a paste. then rub it in the crack then turn the ferrule down. Or, you can just stick an old ferrule in some acetone, but dont submerge it too much so you can hold the top of the ferrule. the bottom will melt and get soft. then take and rub in the crack.
I knew you'd have a pearl of wisdom when it came to ferrules
-
16th August 2018 10:30 AM
#4484
Senior Member
Touring Pro (Japanese Tour)
Originally Posted by
Forecaddie
Depending on how much gap you have, you can take an old ferrule and shave off some flakes and mix in acetone to make a paste. then rub it in the crack then turn the ferrule down. Or, you can just stick an old ferrule in some acetone, but dont submerge it too much so you can hold the top of the ferrule. the bottom will melt and get soft. then take and rub in the crack.
Thanks for the advice Forecaddie, I"ll stick with the heat shrink until I can get hold of a 1" ferrule to close up the gap.
I'm not a patient bloke and want to give the club a try this weekend if the weather holds out, so if it works and I keep it in the bag I"ll fix it properly when I have some down time
"SHANKS FOR THE MEMORIES"
-
16th August 2018 11:08 AM
#4485
Senior Member
Touring Pro (Nationwide Tour)
alright... strange questions...
awhile ago, I've picked up a set of iron shafts that were cut a little shorter than expected (around 1/2" shorter with 5 iron at 37.5")
Can I do something like using the longer shafts for the shorter irons? eg 4 iron shaft for the 5 iron head, 5 shaft for 6 head, etc...
would that affect anything, or just over thinking?
-
16th August 2018 11:11 AM
#4486
Senior Member
Major Winner
Originally Posted by
okitoki
alright... strange questions...
awhile ago, I've picked up a set of iron shafts that were cut a little shorter than expected (around 1/2" shorter with 5 iron at 37.5")
Can I do something like using the longer shafts for the shorter irons? eg 4 iron shaft for the 5 iron head, 5 shaft for 6 head, etc...
would that affect anything, or just over thinking?
That's called 'soft stepping' in a taper tipped iron shaft and will make it, as the name would suggest, play slightly softer to flex.
-
16th August 2018 11:13 AM
#4487
Senior Member
Touring Pro (Nationwide Tour)
Originally Posted by
henno
That's called 'soft stepping' in a taper tipped iron shaft and will make it, as the name would suggest, play slightly softer to flex.
Sweet! the shaft was slightly too stiff for me... so might work out well
thanks
-
16th August 2018 12:26 PM
#4488
Senior Member
Touring Pro (Japanese Tour)
Originally Posted by
henno
That's called 'soft stepping' in a taper tipped iron shaft and will make it, as the name would suggest, play slightly softer to flex.
Would also increase ball flight.
"SHANKS FOR THE MEMORIES"
-
16th August 2018 12:29 PM
#4489
Senior Member
Touring Pro (Nationwide Tour)
Originally Posted by
grandmasterb
Would also increase ball flight.
Probably would help as I seem to struggle with this shaft getting the ball up for the longer irons.
-
16th August 2018 12:58 PM
#4490
Senior Member
Golf Hall of Fame Inductee
Originally Posted by
grandmasterb
Thanks for the advice Forecaddie, I"ll stick with the heat shrink until I can get hold of a 1" ferrule to close up the gap.
I'm not a patient bloke and want to give the club a try this weekend if the weather holds out, so if it works and I keep it in the bag I"ll fix it properly when I have some down time
I may have some as well.
If Chappy can’t assist I’ll check the shed
-
16th August 2018 01:01 PM
#4491
Senior Member
Golf Hall of Fame Inductee
Originally Posted by
okitoki
Probably would help as I seem to struggle with this shaft getting the ball up for the longer irons.
Very common procedure Oki.
-
16th August 2018 01:18 PM
#4492
I've decided to be brave and start pulling apart old irons from the rubbish tip recycling shops and reshafting them for practice before I do it on anything I care about.
All references to clubs mean steel shaft and iron/wedge head. I can't imagine mucking about with graphite anytime soon.
I've been using 24 hour araldite.
Can a shaft or head be be damaged by pulling it apart too many times?
A couple of irons have had tips in them (one wood and another metal) and this has made it harder to reshaft as excess epoxy can't go up the shaft, unlike an untipped shaft. Does this mean I am using too much epoxy? Or is it just a problem that comes with using a shaft with a tip in it?
If the shaft and hosel is not clean enough before reshafting when is it most likely the club will break? More or less right away after a few hits or could it take months of use to break?
If too much or too little epoxy is used, when is it most likely the club will break? Again, more or less right away after a few hits or could it take months of use to break?
-
16th August 2018 07:45 PM
#4493
Senior Member
Major Winner
Originally Posted by
Forecaddie
Depending on how much gap you have, you can take an old ferrule and shave off some flakes and mix in acetone to make a paste. then rub it in the crack then turn the ferrule down. Or, you can just stick an old ferrule in some acetone, but dont submerge it too much so you can hold the top of the ferrule. the bottom will melt and get soft. then take and rub in the crack.
That is some old skool magic right there
-
17th August 2018 07:57 AM
#4494
Originally Posted by
virge666
That is some old skool magic right there
Thanks mate- I'm happy to share my wisdom
-
17th August 2018 06:37 PM
#4495
Senior Member
Order of Merit winner
GMB I have these and they are 1 and a quarter inch long
Srixon 565 - 10.5 deg stiff Miyazaki
Srixon 565 - 15 deg stiff Miyazaki
Srixon H45 - 90gr Stiff Whiteboard
Fourteen DI w/ SPB Stiff
Bridgestone J15CB 4-PW SPB's Stiff
Fourteen MT28 TS Spec 53 & 58 DG Spinner
Piretti Cortino
GOLF Link
BENCH
Drivers/Fairways/Hybrids
Yamaha v202 9.5* - Tourspec x flex
Sonartec SS-03
V Steel 3wd
V Steel 4wd Attas T3 8x
Titleist 585h 19*
Irons
Mizuno MP33 3-P
Putters
Ping Anser, Anser 2, Scottsdale
Wedges
Cleveland 54
Fourteen 48
-
19th August 2018 06:11 PM
#4496
Senior Member
Touring Pro (PGA)
Any ideas on how to remove a piece of steel shaft from a rubber grip without damaging the grip?
Shaft broke about 3 inches from the base of the grip and the butt end remains.
I have tried clamping the grip shut and blowing the grip up a little with air but the broken piece will not move.
It was only blown on in the first place so no glue involved.
Golflink
WITB
Ping G400 SFT 12* Accra ST55 Tour Z M5
Srixon Z355 17* FW Miyazaki Jinsoku S
RBZ Black 3 HY 19* Rocketfuel 65S
Srixon Zu65 3 20* Nippon NS Pro 980GH
Srixon Z765 S300 4-PW
Tourstage X Wedge 54/10, 58/12
Taylormade Spider Tour Red CS 35"
-
19th August 2018 06:19 PM
#4497
Senior Member
Touring Pro (PGA)
If you can find a piece of Wooden Dowel or the like and tap it into the shaft to seal and hold might do it mate!
Proud to use Circle"B" Sun Protection!
-
19th August 2018 06:27 PM
#4498
Senior Member
Touring Pro (PGA)
Originally Posted by
perci
If you can find a piece of Wooden Dowel or the like and tap it into the shaft to seal and hold might do it mate!
Ok thanks Mike, will try that.
Golflink
WITB
Ping G400 SFT 12* Accra ST55 Tour Z M5
Srixon Z355 17* FW Miyazaki Jinsoku S
RBZ Black 3 HY 19* Rocketfuel 65S
Srixon Zu65 3 20* Nippon NS Pro 980GH
Srixon Z765 S300 4-PW
Tourstage X Wedge 54/10, 58/12
Taylormade Spider Tour Red CS 35"
-
20th August 2018 12:14 PM
#4499
Member
Club member who plays rain, hail, shine
Originally Posted by
hacker
Can a shaft or head be be damaged by pulling it apart too many times?
Steel shafts and iron heads highly unlikley unless you really badly overheat them
Originally Posted by
hacker
A couple of irons have had tips in them (one wood and another metal) and this has made it harder to reshaft as excess epoxy can't go up the shaft, unlike an untipped shaft. Does this mean I am using too much epoxy? Or is it just a problem that comes with using a shaft with a tip in it?
There has to be somewhere for the air to escape when pushing a shaft in a hosel and a plug or tip weight (especially with old epoxy in it) will block that. Easy fix is just get a small drill (couple of mm and drill a hole in the tip or plug. Check air will flow by blowing. If grip is still on you may need to push a pin (or tee) through the hole in the end of the grip to clear grip tape or otherwise.
Originally Posted by
hacker
If the shaft and hosel is not clean enough before reshafting when is it most likely the club will break? More or less right away after a few hits or could it take months of use to break? If too much or too little epoxy is used, when is it most likely the club will break? Again, more or less right away after a few hits or could it take months of use to break?
In both cases more likely to be early on but proper tip and hosel prep, right ambient temps and application of glue per bottle means you shouldn't have issues.
-
20th August 2018 05:04 PM
#4500
Thread Information
Users Browsing this Thread
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Similar Threads
-
By mike in forum Equip Me
Replies: 19
Last Post: 9th July 2014, 05:06 PM
-
By adlo in forum In the Swing
Replies: 235
Last Post: 10th April 2011, 12:51 PM
-
By Yossarian in forum 19th Hole
Replies: 23
Last Post: 28th November 2009, 06:37 AM
-
By OZgolf Mod in forum Pro Shop Archive
Replies: 0
Last Post: 10th August 2009, 08:04 PM
-
By Dazza in forum Suggestion Box
Replies: 8
Last Post: 21st November 2008, 04:55 PM
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
Forum Rules