GMB, I'm pretty sure I have some that are in excess of 1". I'll confirm when I get a chance
GMB, I'm pretty sure I have some that are in excess of 1". I'll confirm when I get a chance
Srixon 565 - 10.5 deg stiff Miyazaki
Srixon 565 - 15 deg stiff Miyazaki
Srixon H45 - 90gr Stiff Whiteboard
Fourteen DI w/ SPB Stiff
Bridgestone J15CB 4-PW SPB's Stiff
Fourteen MT28 TS Spec 53 & 58 DG Spinner
Piretti Cortino
GOLF Link
BENCH
Drivers/Fairways/Hybrids
Yamaha v202 9.5* - Tourspec x flex
Sonartec SS-03
V Steel 3wd
V Steel 4wd Attas T3 8x
Titleist 585h 19*
Irons
Mizuno MP33 3-P
Putters
Ping Anser, Anser 2, Scottsdale
Wedges
Cleveland 54
Fourteen 48
Recently bought a hybrid shaft (0.370) for my driving iron (0.355)
What is the general consensus around here? Shaving down or to bore the hosel?
Some of the clubmakers on golfwrx say shaving down is fine
1. You are only taking away 0.015 from the first 0.5" of the tip
2. Most graphite shafts start out as 0.370 anyway?
I agree with Rich, boring out the hosel is an extreme, and usually unnecessary exercise. Slowly narrowing the tip size is easier and less prone to disaster.
It's also typically something you can do in your own workshop with sandpaper or a linisher for the more experienced, boring the hosel will require the appropriate stablising jig, to ensure the bore is centred
Srixon 565 - 10.5 deg stiff Miyazaki
Srixon 565 - 15 deg stiff Miyazaki
Srixon H45 - 90gr Stiff Whiteboard
Fourteen DI w/ SPB Stiff
Bridgestone J15CB 4-PW SPB's Stiff
Fourteen MT28 TS Spec 53 & 58 DG Spinner
Piretti Cortino
GOLF Link
BENCH
Drivers/Fairways/Hybrids
Yamaha v202 9.5* - Tourspec x flex
Sonartec SS-03
V Steel 3wd
V Steel 4wd Attas T3 8x
Titleist 585h 19*
Irons
Mizuno MP33 3-P
Putters
Ping Anser, Anser 2, Scottsdale
Wedges
Cleveland 54
Fourteen 48
Thanks Chappy, no rush as I glued the shaft up last night and have pushed the ferrule all the way up to cover the poor tip prep and have put a small piece of heat shrink to cover the gap between the ferrule and the head.
It's not pretty but it will work so I can try out the shaft *touch wood* this weekend
"SHANKS FOR THE MEMORIES"
Depending on how much gap you have, you can take an old ferrule and shave off some flakes and mix in acetone to make a paste. then rub it in the crack then turn the ferrule down. Or, you can just stick an old ferrule in some acetone, but dont submerge it too much so you can hold the top of the ferrule. the bottom will melt and get soft. then take and rub in the crack.
Thanks for the advice Forecaddie, I"ll stick with the heat shrink until I can get hold of a 1" ferrule to close up the gap.
I'm not a patient bloke and want to give the club a try this weekend if the weather holds out, so if it works and I keep it in the bag I"ll fix it properly when I have some down time
"SHANKS FOR THE MEMORIES"
alright... strange questions...
awhile ago, I've picked up a set of iron shafts that were cut a little shorter than expected (around 1/2" shorter with 5 iron at 37.5")
Can I do something like using the longer shafts for the shorter irons? eg 4 iron shaft for the 5 iron head, 5 shaft for 6 head, etc...
would that affect anything, or just over thinking?
I've decided to be brave and start pulling apart old irons from the rubbish tip recycling shops and reshafting them for practice before I do it on anything I care about.
All references to clubs mean steel shaft and iron/wedge head. I can't imagine mucking about with graphite anytime soon.
I've been using 24 hour araldite.
Can a shaft or head be be damaged by pulling it apart too many times?
A couple of irons have had tips in them (one wood and another metal) and this has made it harder to reshaft as excess epoxy can't go up the shaft, unlike an untipped shaft. Does this mean I am using too much epoxy? Or is it just a problem that comes with using a shaft with a tip in it?
If the shaft and hosel is not clean enough before reshafting when is it most likely the club will break? More or less right away after a few hits or could it take months of use to break?
If too much or too little epoxy is used, when is it most likely the club will break? Again, more or less right away after a few hits or could it take months of use to break?
GMB I have these and they are 1 and a quarter inch long
Srixon 565 - 10.5 deg stiff Miyazaki
Srixon 565 - 15 deg stiff Miyazaki
Srixon H45 - 90gr Stiff Whiteboard
Fourteen DI w/ SPB Stiff
Bridgestone J15CB 4-PW SPB's Stiff
Fourteen MT28 TS Spec 53 & 58 DG Spinner
Piretti Cortino
GOLF Link
BENCH
Drivers/Fairways/Hybrids
Yamaha v202 9.5* - Tourspec x flex
Sonartec SS-03
V Steel 3wd
V Steel 4wd Attas T3 8x
Titleist 585h 19*
Irons
Mizuno MP33 3-P
Putters
Ping Anser, Anser 2, Scottsdale
Wedges
Cleveland 54
Fourteen 48
Any ideas on how to remove a piece of steel shaft from a rubber grip without damaging the grip?
Shaft broke about 3 inches from the base of the grip and the butt end remains.
I have tried clamping the grip shut and blowing the grip up a little with air but the broken piece will not move.
It was only blown on in the first place so no glue involved.
Golflink
WITB
Ping G400 SFT 12* Accra ST55 Tour Z M5
Srixon Z355 17* FW Miyazaki Jinsoku S
RBZ Black 3 HY 19* Rocketfuel 65S
Srixon Zu65 3 20* Nippon NS Pro 980GH
Srixon Z765 S300 4-PW
Tourstage X Wedge 54/10, 58/12
Taylormade Spider Tour Red CS 35"
If you can find a piece of Wooden Dowel or the like and tap it into the shaft to seal and hold might do it mate!
Proud to use Circle"B" Sun Protection!
Golflink
WITB
Ping G400 SFT 12* Accra ST55 Tour Z M5
Srixon Z355 17* FW Miyazaki Jinsoku S
RBZ Black 3 HY 19* Rocketfuel 65S
Srixon Zu65 3 20* Nippon NS Pro 980GH
Srixon Z765 S300 4-PW
Tourstage X Wedge 54/10, 58/12
Taylormade Spider Tour Red CS 35"
Steel shafts and iron heads highly unlikley unless you really badly overheat them
There has to be somewhere for the air to escape when pushing a shaft in a hosel and a plug or tip weight (especially with old epoxy in it) will block that. Easy fix is just get a small drill (couple of mm and drill a hole in the tip or plug. Check air will flow by blowing. If grip is still on you may need to push a pin (or tee) through the hole in the end of the grip to clear grip tape or otherwise.
In both cases more likely to be early on but proper tip and hosel prep, right ambient temps and application of glue per bottle means you shouldn't have issues.
Cheers for the info
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)