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  1. #1
    Senior Member Multiple Major Winner
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    Default Club building....

    How many guys in here active in doing their own driver and wood reshafting? What toolage do you use?

    Would these be smick?

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MakeTrack=true

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ROBERTS-PRO-HYDR...3%3A1|294%3A50

    Just being able to do my own woods would be fantastic.

    What else would one need for the minor basics of this. I imagine some good epoxy, ferrules, a lil handsaw for shaft cutting, grip glue, some sort of knife for removing ferrules? Sandpaper for tips?

    Cheers
    WITB
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  2. #2
    Senior Member Grand Slam Winner
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    Default

    Looks the good that i was looking at making/buying when I was right into this. Just got al too hard. Was easier just to buy another club.
    Grant

    Grunt's Golflink
    TM Burner - Cobra F Speed 3W - TM Draw 3H - TM Burner 4i-AW - Vokey 54/58 Wedges - Wilson 8862 Blade


  3. #3
    Senior Member Multiple Major Winner
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    Default

    That's what i feared lol. I'm one for trying different shafts and zeroing in so i think it'd be worthwhile with the bare requirements. I have no need to do irons.
    WITB
    TRS2 9* Velocore Blue 7s
    G430 9* Ventus Velo 7s
    Titleist TSI2 15* DI7s

    Ping G425 19* hybrid Accra TZ6
    Tour Edge XCG 24* hybrid Altus
    Srixon ZX5 MKII 6-pw
    Ping Stealth 2.0 50*SS, 54*SS, 58SS/TS*
    TP Mills Tour Fleetwood

  4. #4
    Senior Member Touring Pro (PGA)
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    Default

    Don,t do it you will drive yourself {and your misses} mad!

  5. #5
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    The shaft extractor looks pretty good. I made one myself, but at that price I wouldn't bother. Get a butane torch rather than the heat gun, it works much faster. Check out some of the Youtube videos featuring JB's shaft extractor (similar to the one on eBay), they are really easy to use.

    And yes, your missus will be pissed off at the amount of time you will spend dicking around in the shed on the stupid bloody golf clubs.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Touring Pro (European Tour)
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timbo View Post
    The shaft extractor looks pretty good. I made one myself, but at that price I wouldn't bother. Get a butane torch rather than the heat gun, it works much faster. Check out some of the Youtube videos featuring JB's shaft extractor (similar to the one on eBay), they are really easy to use.

    And yes, your missus will be pissed off at the amount of time you will spend dicking around in the shed on the stupid bloody golf clubs.
    I wouldn't recommend a butane torch when dealing with graphite shafts!
    Golf Map | WITB: Titleist TSR3 9* / Titleist 917F 3W 13.5* / PING G430 5W 17* / Titleist T100S 4I - PW / Vokey SM9 50-8*, 55-10*, 60-10* / PING Sigma2 Kushin C 35.5" / Titleist ProV1

  7. #7
    Senior Member Touring Pro (PGA)
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    Default

    Definitely not Butane heat gun is the way to go,I picked up a Mitchell shaft puller about 3 years and 200 shafts ago.Also got a loft lie machine that I regularly spend time with,the Misses just shakes her head!

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by perci View Post
    I picked up a Mitchell shaft puller about 3 years and 200 shafts ago.Also got a loft lie machine that I regularly spend time with
    And most Brisbane ozgolf members thank you for it.



  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Minor_Threat View Post
    I wouldn't recommend a butane torch when dealing with graphite shafts!
    I have removed plenty of graphite shafts using a butane torch (not propane) with no adverse effect on either the shafts or the heads. You are heating the head (moving the torch constantly) and the epoxy gives long before the graphite. The hydraulic extractor also pulls directly up off the shaft, there is no twisting whatsoever. The hydraulic extractor I made is also spring tensioned like the JB Pro model (don't know if the one on ebay is or not).

    I know it's a bit long, but have a look at this demo on Youtube.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UjU7DrYb1qc

  10. #10
    Senior Member Touring Pro (European Tour)
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timbo View Post
    I have removed plenty of graphite shafts using a butane torch (not propane) with no adverse effect on either the shafts or the heads. You are heating the head (moving the torch constantly) and the epoxy gives long before the graphite. The hydraulic extractor also pulls directly up off the shaft, there is no twisting whatsoever. The hydraulic extractor I made is also spring tensioned like the JB Pro model (don't know if the one on ebay is or not).

    I know it's a bit long, but have a look at this demo on Youtube.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UjU7DrYb1qc
    You stick with the Butane and ill take the Heat Gun..
    Golf Map | WITB: Titleist TSR3 9* / Titleist 917F 3W 13.5* / PING G430 5W 17* / Titleist T100S 4I - PW / Vokey SM9 50-8*, 55-10*, 60-10* / PING Sigma2 Kushin C 35.5" / Titleist ProV1

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Minor_Threat View Post
    You stick with the Butane and ill take the Heat Gun..
    Shit yea,its about gettng them out with the least posible heat required!
    Proud to use Circle"B" Sun Protection!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Minor_Threat View Post
    I wouldn't recommend a butane torch when dealing with graphite shafts!
    I prefer it to a heat gun.. especially if I have to get the heat into one particular area. Heat guns are to general, but I wouldn't recommend it if you don't know what you are doing.

  13. #13
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    Heat gun takes about 30 seconds and not a lot of chance of over heating. Better for amateurs like us.





    spasticrap
    Sim 2 Max / PRGR
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  14. #14
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    Another one for heat gun here, low heat shaft pulls are always preferred.
    Srixon 565 - 10.5 deg stiff Miyazaki
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  15. #15
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    What are the basic options for sanding and prepping tips guys. How simple can we go.
    WITB
    TRS2 9* Velocore Blue 7s
    G430 9* Ventus Velo 7s
    Titleist TSI2 15* DI7s

    Ping G425 19* hybrid Accra TZ6
    Tour Edge XCG 24* hybrid Altus
    Srixon ZX5 MKII 6-pw
    Ping Stealth 2.0 50*SS, 54*SS, 58SS/TS*
    TP Mills Tour Fleetwood

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheNuclearOne View Post
    What are the basic options for sanding and prepping tips guys. How simple can we go.
    Bench grinder here and give it a slight roughness..
    Golf Map | WITB: Titleist TSR3 9* / Titleist 917F 3W 13.5* / PING G430 5W 17* / Titleist T100S 4I - PW / Vokey SM9 50-8*, 55-10*, 60-10* / PING Sigma2 Kushin C 35.5" / Titleist ProV1

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheNuclearOne View Post
    What are the basic options for sanding and prepping tips guys. How simple can we go.
    Bench grinder is easiest for steel shafts. I use a box cutter for graphite just to remove the paint then finish off with a piece of sanding belt.

  18. #18
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    where is the best place to buy epoxy for reshafting heads??

    also what sort of solvent, grip tape should you use for redoing grips??

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by simmsy View Post
    where is the best place to buy epoxy for reshafting heads??

    also what sort of solvent, grip tape should you use for redoing grips??
    Buy some cheap sidewinders off me and use your air compressor - no one with any talent uses solvent/tapes/bostik any more... just too hard. If anyone tells you you need glue and tape - just nod and ignore.

    Get some Araldite 24 hr 2 part epoxy and use that when starting out... you won't get bubbles in your glue... once you work out how to get rid of bubbles you can use 5 min epoxy.

    When you buy your shafts - DONT FORGET to ask for ferrules - for the 50 cents they cost it is way easier than trying to save them.

  20. #20
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    do you put anything over the grip to put it on virge, how many psi do you use?

  21. #21

  22. #22

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    I don't need the fancy nozzle as the $5 connection I bought works just fine, but what do you guys use when taking off grips to stop them exploding? (I have as yet only replaced worn grips, so I just cut them off.)



  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by just View Post
    Thanx Just

    Does this become harder to do if you have say more than 4 tapes on the shaft?

    I have a set i'm going to do in the next day or 2, not sure if they have been glued or not, and i want to save them, so should i just get a syringe and pump some turps in?
    Last edited by zigwah; 1st July 2009 at 08:06 PM.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by henno View Post
    I don't need the fancy nozzle as the $5 connection I bought works just fine, but what do you guys use when taking off grips to stop them exploding? (I have as yet only replaced worn grips, so I just cut them off.)
    My dad made my nozzle bit, but we had trouble trying to get a grip off that had the sticky tape underneath was just blowing the grip up.

  25. #25
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    I use Shellite tipped in the mouth of the grip with my finger over the hole at the butt end, swirl it around and then pour over the buildup tape or the bare shaft where the grip is going on. It will glide on without air even with a heap of buildup tape. Set aside in the sun near warmth and the Shellite evaporates without leaving a smell. Can get it next to Turps, Metho at any store that sells these hydrocarbons.


 

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