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Speirsy11
12th May 2006, 02:42 PM
Guys

Can you use taper tip shafts in a parallel set of heads? I've always thought it was no big deal, just add a little epoxy and you're good.......Am I wrong? Are my iron heads going to start flying down fairways (ok, down the rough) now?

Thanks

Speirsy11

peter_rs
12th May 2006, 02:45 PM
I think it can be done if your careful but no one would recommend it.

Speirsy11
12th May 2006, 02:47 PM
I've done it with a few sets and haven't had any problems at all, even at my swing speed.......Aparently I'm crazy for it......

Who knows......

peter_rs
12th May 2006, 02:54 PM
well there is worse things in life. :)

Bruce
12th May 2006, 02:56 PM
Isn't there a risk in doing this that the shaft won't be exactly centred? You could end up with a small lie angle or offset change throughout the set.

It wouldn't be much but I reckon you'd be more likely to have an issue with it than I would.

pt73
12th May 2006, 02:56 PM
You can buy shims that will make it work, the main issue is that without them you can't be 100% sure that the shafts are straight in the head which could change loft and lie.


PT

3oneday
12th May 2006, 06:42 PM
I've done it on a couple of sets, one set I shimmed, one set I added sand to the glue.

No projectiles as yet, the guy with sand shot 4 over first time out off 5, he reckoned they felt fine.

I think "just glue" may give you the chance of a crooked insert, but there are lots of little tricks. Ben also suggested using flyscreen cutup, which worked perfectly as well !!!

I just today put a .335 tip shaft in a .350 driver using a shim, hit 30 balls with it tonight no troubles at all.

Pete

Speirsy11
12th May 2006, 07:29 PM
I've done it on a couple of sets, one set I shimmed, one set I added sand to the glue.

No projectiles as yet, the guy with sand shot 4 over first time out off 5, he reckoned they felt fine.

I think "just glue" may give you the chance of a crooked insert, but there are lots of little tricks. Ben also suggested using flyscreen cutup, which worked perfectly as well !!!

I just today put a .335 tip shaft in a .350 driver using a shim, hit 30 balls with it tonight no troubles at all.

Pete

Thanks Pete......I trust my club fitter down here, he seems to know his stuff and I haven't had any problems yet having done a few sets like this myself.....

Fingers crossed......

Speirsy

ben
16th May 2006, 02:09 PM
Speirsy,

I do it all the time. I use a brass shim and I've never had one fail. The shim is a .15 shim which brings the .355 shaft upto .370, it sits perfectly. People usually run into trouble when they use shaft beads, sand or extra epoxy, these will not centre the shaft.

AndyP
16th April 2009, 01:35 PM
Aha, I knew there would be a thread on this topic somewhere.

My Ravens have parallel heads, and I can easily obtain some taper shafts. No problems with this shimming? Does anyone know if perci does this?

BrisVegas
16th April 2009, 02:57 PM
why dont you ask him?

AndyP
16th April 2009, 03:47 PM
I think he does, and I will ask, but it wasn't the main question of my post.

Jarro
16th April 2009, 03:50 PM
I don't think Perci reshafts Ravens ....


.... he only eats them !

TourFit
16th April 2009, 06:17 PM
Shimming is recommended...Ben got it spot on!! #15 Shim will do the trick (adds 0.015 to a 0.355 hosel = 0.370 !!).

You can, and will, get crooked insertions if JUST using epoxy because the tip, which is tapered (fancy that) will move toward the rear hosel wall as you lean it from the butt end against the wall to dry...sand/shafting beads do NOT provide enough "build out" to fill the void at the tip end.

goonie
16th April 2009, 06:37 PM
I have done this heaps of times, you can even make your own shims from soft drink cans.

I'm sure perci will do it, if he can't I can do it for you.

virge666
16th April 2009, 07:01 PM
Shimming is recommended...Ben got it spot on!! #15 Shim will do the trick (adds 0.015 to a 0.355 hosel = 0.370 !!).

You can, and will, get crooked insertions if JUST using epoxy because the tip, which is tapered (fancy that) will move toward the rear hosel wall as you lean it from the butt end against the wall to dry...sand/shafting beads do NOT provide enough "build out" to fill the void at the tip end.


I have done this heaps of times, you can even make your own shims from soft drink cans.

I'm sure perci will do it, if he can't I can do it for you.

What they said...

AndyP
16th April 2009, 08:04 PM
OK, thanks. I wasn't quite sure if shims were standard practice and had no impact on playability.

Ferrins
8th February 2012, 11:24 AM
Speirsy,

I do it all the time. I use a brass shim and I've never had one fail. The shim is a .15 shim which brings the .355 shaft upto .370, it sits perfectly. People usually run into trouble when they use shaft beads, sand or extra epoxy, these will not centre the shaft.


Shimming is recommended...Ben got it spot on!! #15 Shim will do the trick (adds 0.015 to a 0.355 hosel = 0.370 !!).

You can, and will, get crooked insertions if JUST using epoxy because the tip, which is tapered (fancy that) will move toward the rear hosel wall as you lean it from the butt end against the wall to dry...sand/shafting beads do NOT provide enough "build out" to fill the void at the tip end.


I have done this heaps of times, you can even make your own shims from soft drink cans.

I'm sure perci will do it, if he can't I can do it for you.


What they said...


This still valid? I have DGS300 .355 shafts and have some Wishon 550c .370 heads coming. Would prefer to use these shafts instead of buying others.

Ferrins
8th February 2012, 11:32 AM
http://www.freegolfinfo.com/forums/tm.aspx?m=2590545&mpage=1&key=&#2590545

Conflicting views on here.



"It's a bad idea - though more common now since epoxy is much higher quality than even 10 years ago.

Why? Because shafting epoxy is not designed to work in compression, and unless you can keep the shaft from wiggling at all in the bottom of the hosel, you will compress that epoxy and it will turn to dust.

This means the shaft is only being held in the hosel by the last 5/8" of the shaft."

If you would short-shaft an iron head with only 5/8" of a shaft inserted, then this is the same holding power you will get from a tapered shaft in a parallel hosel with the bottom of the epoxy turned to dust.

It's not a repair we will do here at all.

goonie
8th February 2012, 11:55 AM
It works fine, i have done it with home made shims and proper shims, they quite often have a better fit than normal.

Ferrins
8th February 2012, 12:00 PM
Cool bananas!

IanO
8th February 2012, 01:04 PM
Slightly off topic ... you mention epoxy, is there a special one I should use? Up until now I have used araldite.

TourFit
8th February 2012, 01:23 PM
Avoid the quick setting stuff.

Araldite 24hr cure is fine for home stuff and mucking around....sprinkle some sand blasting sand in it.

Ferrins
8th February 2012, 03:40 PM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brass-Shaft-Shims-PKG-Of-25-/120854716807?pt=Golf_Clubmaking_Products_US&hash=item1c2380a187#ht_500wt_1202

I'm assuming these are the go.

Captain Nemo
8th February 2012, 06:01 PM
That's what you need Ferret!

dave1
8th February 2012, 10:24 PM
Why not just buy the right tipped shafts?

Most shafts available in parallel and taper tip

Just buy the right one.

goonie
8th February 2012, 11:57 PM
Why not just buy the right tipped shafts?

Most shafts available in parallel and taper tip

Just buy the right one.

Because he doesn't have to waste money on another set, plus taper DGs are constant weight, parallel aren't, I also prefer to use tapers in parallel heads this very reason.

dave1
9th February 2012, 01:20 AM
Ok

Good explanation thanks