Improving ball flight penetration

[Golfnut]

Heading into winter and Perth being reknowned for it's windy conditions, thought this may be useful to others also.....had a hit today in the terrible conditions and found anything I hit into the wind with my driver seemed to balloon no matter how hard I hit it, tried a few different balls but made hardly any difference.....I felt like I was hitting it very well today too! (hit 11 fairways today, the rest were just off)

Just wanted to know if there are any technics/tips to use for hitting driver into the wind? How much does the head and/or shaft specs impact ball penetration in these conditions and in general?

With some recent swing changes I find I'm hitting the ball off the driver a lot higher/straighter in normal conditions with only a marginal increase in distance so I'm looking for a more penetrating flight. Is this more shaft related than technic?

Irons didn't seem to be as badly affected by the wind, they were a little bit shorter in distance but didn't balloon up.

[MegaWatty]

Think of this GN. The harder you hit it, the more backspin you're likely to put on the ball...

[idgolfguy]

Shaft but also technique. You have to experiment with tee height, ball position and hinge action.

Be methodical in your experimentation.

[Scottt]

Don't hit it harder, that will only make it worse.

Playing into strong winds is all about rhythm. Be smooth. I tee it a bit lower and grip down an inch or so.

[Golfnut]

Yeah, I worked out pretty quick that hitting it harder wasn't going to help at all. :roll:

I'm guessing positioning the ball back a bit in your stance so your not hitting up on it could work to keep flight down.

Could the HMOI shaft in the Burner not help things, as I said I'm finding it baloons a bit in normal conditions too.

[PeteyD]

Does it balloon or just hit high? Big difference.

[Zeusgolf]

GN you need to stop hitting a cut.....

You need to come from the inside of the ball, hands lead the clubhead into impact, hands roll through after impact and you dont ever hit up on the ball.....

[Golfnut]

It ballooned into the wind yesterday big time.....otherwise it goes very high.....just doesn't seem to be a very penetrating flight

[Webster]

get a new driver

[Golfnut]

^^^was waiting for that Jack :roll: :lol:

[razaar]

What is your shot shape?
What does your wrist do just past impact?
Are your arms close together past impact or are they separated?
Do you think of staying centred on the downswing or never think of it?

[Golfnut]

GN you need to stop hitting a cut.....

You need to come from the inside of the ball, hands lead the clubhead into impact, hands roll through after impact and you dont ever hit up on the ball.....

Zeus, I'm hitting it a lot straighter (did yesterday anyway), at worst a slight fade.....been working on my lagging. ID was telling my not to come inside so much which is what I have been trying to do.

[Golfnut]

What is your shot shape? Slight fade left-right
What does your wrist do just past impact? Which one?
Are your arms close together past impact or are they separated? Seperated as far I can tell
Do you think of staying centred on the downswing or never think of it? Yes, been working on keeping my weight centred at setup and in the down swing.

I'm finding now that I'm hitting the occasional snap hook.....when this happens, the ball really has a motor on it.

[3oneday]

get a new driver

best advice thus far 8) Carry an 8.5 for the windy days.

[Zeusgolf]

What is your shot shape? Slight fade left-right
What does your wrist do just past impact? Which one?
Are your arms close together past impact or are they separated? Seperated as far I can tell
Do you think of staying centred on the downswing or never think of it? Yes, been working on keeping my weight centred at setup and in the down swing.

I'm finding now that I'm hitting the occasional snap hook.....when this happens, the ball really has a motor on it.

Sounds like you are flipping which means the left wrist is bending at or just after impact rather than rolling...from your POV the clubhead goes left after impact but your arms are still point to the right of target....

Only two shot shapes for this problem.... hook when you come OTT and close the face or a fade when you don't close the face and cut across the ball.

I have seen you on the tee and you slice not a fade..ball starts left from where your are aim and fades back to centre, this is what needs to be fixed.....

[Zeusgolf]

Oh and BTW i still think they way to stop the flip is to ensure the right should goes down and on the plain......and fast....

[virge666]

It is all mathematics, it depends on how high you think high is - it depends on what you think balooning is, it depends on how you swing the golf club.

Let's break it down. In the wind you need less spin if you are hitting into the wind and more spin if you are hitting with the wind. All the wind does is increase your spin rate, this means both backspin AND side spin. Really important that last bit. Forget all the technical shit, your not going to change yor golf swing for a few rounds in the wind . . . are you. Just play in a normal every way and make very slight changes. The less change you make - the easier it is to play consistantly.

Rule #1... and this is bloody important. ACCEPT IT. You are playing in the wind, it is going to be harder to control the ball and you are going to lose a tonne of distance. But so is everyone else, the first person to mentally get in the game usually wins. Complaining that your last drive only went 180m puts you in a bad frame of mind. Change the brain to think "Hey the wind is strong today, only 180m on a good drive !". Sounds stupid, but it works . . . whinging golfers never win.

Rule #2... Play a lower spinning golf ball - The Pro V1x is my favourite - it is the best wind ball out there. Don't play rocks - they will spin and balloon way to much. The lower the spin the better.

Rule #3... Less spine tilt at setup. You know how you kink you upper body to the right at address - don't do that. keep everything else the same, just less upper body tilt to the right. This will flatten your ball flight and increase your spin rate. If the ball goes low and left - open your stance, if it goes low and right - move the ball back. Find the balance and play. And remember the lower you hit it - the more spin you need to get the ball through the oncoming wind. Let me repeat that - Hit is LOW, you need MORE spin, hit is HIGH, you need LESS spin. This rings true for windless days too.

Rule #4... Unless you are into the breeze - hit your normal ball flight. and by into the breeze, I mean 11-1 oclock. Anything else - if you make a good swing, the ball will take care of the rest. (Allow for the wind left or right though)

Thats it . . . ignore the rest of the stuff, go out and play, the ball will do most of the work for you. The ball is the best weapon you have on windy days, if you have the wrong ball - you will fight it all the ay around the course.

Enjoy

[razaar]

Get a lesson mate.:)

[Zeusgolf]

It is all mathematics, it depends on how high you think high is - it depends on what you think balooning is, it depends on how you swing the golf club.

Let's break it down. In the wind you need less spin if you are hitting into the wind and more spin if you are hitting with the wind. All the wind does is increase your spin rate, this means both backspin AND side spin. Really important that last bit. Forget all the technical shit, your not going to change yor golf swing for a few rounds in the wind . . . are you. Just play in a normal every way and make very slight changes. The less change you make - the easier it is to play consistantly.

Rule #1... and this is bloody important. ACCEPT IT. You are playing in the wind, it is going to be harder to control the ball and you are going to lose a tonne of distance. But so is everyone else, the first person to mentally get in the game usually wins. Complaining that your last drive only went 180m puts you in a bad frame of mind. Change the brain to think "Hey the wind is strong today, only 180m on a good drive !". Sounds stupid, but it works . . . whinging golfers never win.

Rule #2... Play a lower spinning golf ball - The Pro V1x is my favourite - it is the best wind ball out there. Don't play rocks - they will spin and balloon way to much. The lower the spin the better.

Rule #3... Less spine tilt at setup. You know how you kink you upper body to the right at address - don't do that. keep everything else the same, just less upper body tilt to the right. This will flatten your ball flight and increase your spin rate. If the ball goes low and left - open your stance, if it goes low and right - move the ball back. Find the balance and play. And remember the lower you hit it - the more spin you need to get the ball through the oncoming wind. Let me repeat that - Hit is LOW, you need MORE spin, hit is HIGH, you need LESS spin. This rings true for windless days too.

Rule #4... Unless you are into the breeze - hit your normal ball flight. and by into the breeze, I mean 11-1 oclock. Anything else - if you make a good swing, the ball will take care of the rest. (Allow for the wind left or right though)

Thats it . . . ignore the rest of the stuff, go out and play, the ball will do most of the work for you. The ball is the best weapon you have on windy days, if you have the wrong ball - you will fight it all the ay around the course.

Enjoy

I'm just thinking of the big picture here with general future improvement....

We are taking about a +22 handicap swing....

[3oneday]

I'm just thinking of the big picture here with general future improvement....

We are taking about a +22 handicap swing....

yep, new driver is easiest option, and much less reading too ;)

[adlo]

Zeus is correct. It is a flipping issue.

[virge666]

We are taking about a +22 handicap swing....

In that case - he's rooted. Just go out and bash it, have a laugh, and bash it again.

Then go and get some lesson's, trying to change your ball flight when you play off 22 is like trying to paint "The Last Supper" after mastering a connect the dots book. You have to learn to walk first.

Zeus is 100% right - over to you, if that doesn't work 3OD will sell you a new driver.

Enjoy

[Golfnut]

Sounds like you are flipping which means the left wrist is bending at or just after impact rather than rolling...from your POV the clubhead goes left after impact but your arms are still point to the right of target....

Only two shot shapes for this problem.... hook when you come OTT and close the face or a fade when you don't close the face and cut across the ball.

This is most likely true Zeus, I'll have to take more notice of what my glove hand is doing through impact when I'm next out......




I have seen you on the tee and you slice not a fade..ball starts left from where your are aim and fades back to centre, this is what needs to be fixed.....

You probably noticed that at Champs mate. I spent some time with ID prior to Champs and had a go at his style of swing.....it worked very well when I pulled it off but felt very wristy meaning timing was imperative. At my stage in the game I don't have that sort of timing or ball striking ability to be able to rely on that type of swing. I tried ID's style of swing at KB a couple of times but wasn't too successful (except on the 18th when it worked with a 260m+ drive)
After that Friday it prompted me to make some swing changes as I was very inconsistent.

I went away and did a fair bit of practice to try and actually simulate your swing Zeus and have had much better success at finding fairways and hitting longer. I'm averaging about 75% of fairways in a round atm which I've never done since taking up the game (I'm even hitting my 3w much better too). I have noticed though that the ball flight now is quite high with the driver.....I know height is not a bad thing but the flight doesn't seem to be pentrating enough.....just wondering if this is an indication that the shaft may not be right for me. On a side note, I'm hitting my hybrids really well since changing to the Mitsubishi Javln FX shafts.......ball flight is penetrating, usually straight but I'm able to put a slight fade or draw on it when needed so I'm toying with the idea of trying one of these shafts in my Burner.

Does any of this make sense or am I just p!ssing in the wind here??? I know my handicap is high but I'm determined to improve it, just trying to get my driver sorted.

[Golfnut]

It is all mathematics, it depends on how high you think high is - it depends on what you think balooning is, it depends on how you swing the golf club.

Let's break it down. In the wind you need less spin if you are hitting into the wind and more spin if you are hitting with the wind. All the wind does is increase your spin rate, this means both backspin AND side spin. Really important that last bit. Forget all the technical shit, your not going to change yor golf swing for a few rounds in the wind . . . are you. Just play in a normal every way and make very slight changes. The less change you make - the easier it is to play consistantly.

Rule #1... and this is bloody important. ACCEPT IT. You are playing in the wind, it is going to be harder to control the ball and you are going to lose a tonne of distance. But so is everyone else, the first person to mentally get in the game usually wins. Complaining that your last drive only went 180m puts you in a bad frame of mind. Change the brain to think "Hey the wind is strong today, only 180m on a good drive !". Sounds stupid, but it works . . . whinging golfers never win.

Rule #2... Play a lower spinning golf ball - The Pro V1x is my favourite - it is the best wind ball out there. Don't play rocks - they will spin and balloon way to much. The lower the spin the better.

Rule #3... Less spine tilt at setup. You know how you kink you upper body to the right at address - don't do that. keep everything else the same, just less upper body tilt to the right. This will flatten your ball flight and increase your spin rate. If the ball goes low and left - open your stance, if it goes low and right - move the ball back. Find the balance and play. And remember the lower you hit it - the more spin you need to get the ball through the oncoming wind. Let me repeat that - Hit is LOW, you need MORE spin, hit is HIGH, you need LESS spin. This rings true for windless days too.

Rule #4... Unless you are into the breeze - hit your normal ball flight. and by into the breeze, I mean 11-1 oclock. Anything else - if you make a good swing, the ball will take care of the rest. (Allow for the wind left or right though)

Thats it . . . ignore the rest of the stuff, go out and play, the ball will do most of the work for you. The ball is the best weapon you have on windy days, if you have the wrong ball - you will fight it all the ay around the course.

Enjoy

Thanks Virge.....I'll keep those pearls of wisdom in mind for windy days.....I know what you mean in Rule #1, excellent advice.

[Scottt]

In that case - he's rooted. Just go out and bash it, have a laugh, and bash it again.

Then go and get some lesson's, trying to change your ball flight when you play off 22 is like trying to paint "The Last Supper" after mastering a connect the dots book. You have to learn to walk first.

Zeus is 100% right - over to you, if that doesn't work 3OD will sell you a new driver.

Enjoy

:smt038:lol:

[idgolfguy]

Id's style is a result of flat left wrist and a neutral grip for Id and not GN. ID also said to chip 1000 balls between 10m to 50m with different clubs in order to get the hang of it. If you are prepared to do this, your handicap would drop to around 14 or 15 because your short game has improved. Your long game may improve a little because your impact will be better. However, you will not see big gains.

Your alignment is inconsistent, and your grip is too weak. Grip position is a dynamic thing and is based on you build. At rest, your hands lie at a different position to others. Naturally, a neutral grip for you would be different to someone else. Your grip and alignment would be part of the mix that result in the symptoms the Zeus is talking about.

[razaar]

Id's style is a result of flat left wrist and a neutral grip for Id and not GN. ID also said to chip 1000 balls between 10m to 50m with different clubs in order to get the hang of it. If you are prepared to do this, your handicap would drop to around 14 or 15 because your short game has improved. Your long game may improve a little because your impact will be better. However, you will not see big gains.

Your alignment is inconsistent, and your grip is too weak. Grip position is a dynamic thing and is based on you build. At rest, your hands lie at a different position to others. Naturally, a neutral grip for you would be different to someone else. Your grip and alignment would be part of the mix that result in the symptoms the Zeus is talking about.

Nice...but how does he find the right grip for him?

[idgolfguy]

Ultimately GN, you are not at a stage where you can listen to swing advice from multiple sources and apply them to your own swing yet. We are amatuers who dabble in the game and can provide snippets.

Fundamentally, you have to work from the ground up. At 22 hc, you have a good opportunity to retool as it won't make much difference to your game. Get to a pro locally, engage Virge or Razaar through video etc. Acquire the best stance and grip and couple it with correct alignment. Go through the basics one step at a time. Once you know the plane you should be on, get your pivot sorted and so on...

You have no idea how many balls Zeus has hit to get where he's at and the understanding of his swing or for that matter myself. You have not experienced what lag or true compression is until you've done the chipping and pitching drills I showed you.

Btw, I have a very late release and you show not copy it as you have seen it works well in practise rounds only and only usually in comp rounds. It is something I have been trying to work on for years, and is only now that it is coming into place but slowly.

[idgolfguy]

The grip position is the TGM approach. In a nutshell, assume a golf stance, hang your arms loose. Looking down your target hand will show a number of knuckles - 2,3 or 4 - for some people. Form your neutral grip based on those knuckles showing. For me it is 2.5 knuckles.

[idgolfguy]

I neglected to add that my meaning for 'engage' means to pay. If you don't, you won't place enough value on it and are likely to have less commitment from yourself and the person giving advice.

[razaar]

The grip position is the TGM approach. In a nutshell, assume a golf stance, hang your arms loose. Looking down your target hand will show a number of knuckles - 2,3 or 4 - for some people. Form your neutral grip based on those knuckles showing. For me it is 2.5 knuckles.
That's it. A Harvey Penick gem...who knows before him.

[virge666]

ID,

Awesome stuff mate. Just Awesome.

Cheers

[3oneday]

New driver.

[Pieface]

GN...sit on 22. Learn the distances and types of holes you can look to make par on. Learn the distances and types of holes you struggle on. Play to your strengths, use your strokes where you need them and take the lower H'caps internet money :)

Seriously, get some lessons to get some guided progress happening. I am sure if I put some time into the techniques and practice drills given to me in a set of $100 group classes I should get down to 18 or so. Some basic drills and focussed pratice should get you down a fair few strokes. I'm not practicing enough but I already know hitting 40-50 balls with concentration is worth a lot more than smashing out a large basket of 100+ where I lose focus on what I'm trying to do. Hitting 1000 balls like id said is a good start in the right sized chunks...unfortunately that is probably just a good start for chopers like us :lol:

Not sure about trying to emulate anyone elses swing...I have NFI what I'm doing let alone trying to copy what someone else is doing. Are you using video or just trying to do what you "think" id or zeus are doing?

Having seen you at Mt Lawley I know you have the game to shoot lower. From here it's about minimising the damage you do on the brain fart holes and capitalising on the holes where you put yourself in position to score well. The low h'cap guys we play with don't always hit perfect shots they just know how to recover better and salvage pars and bogeys instead of carding triples or worse

Remember it is how many not how pretty!

Into the wind...I hit 3H, ball forward in the stance and try to sting it low for around 200m :mrgreen:

[Golfnut]

I hear ya PF...some good advice there. I think the thread may have gotten away from the OP question a bit but I don't mind the lads in the know imparting more knowledge to us higher cappers.

I've actually been getting out for about 2 rounds a week now for the last couple of months and my general ball striking and decision making has improved a lot. Yes, there still are the odd brain fart holes during a round but I'm getting more consistent with my damage control. I've pretty much shot under my unofficial h'cap on every round in the last few weeks, some on sligtly shorter courses but the ball still needs to find the hole regardless.

I have been experimenting with my 3w, now that I'm hitting it a lot better and it's proven to be just as long off the tee as my driver so I'm convinced the HMOI shaft in the driver may not be right for me....could even be the head....I either need to get out and hit some different bats or try a different shaft in the big dog.

[adlo]

I have been experimenting with my 3w, now that I'm hitting it a lot better and it's proven to be just as long off the tee as my driver so I'm convinced the HMOI shaft in the driver may not be right for me....could even be the head....I either need to get out and hit some different bats or try a different shaft in the big dog.

This is an incorrect assumption GN.

Most slower swing speeds benefit from the loft and extra spin of the 3 wood, giving them as much distance as driver. Don't buy a new driver based on this (false) assumption.

[just]

Try a higher loft driver, say 12*, with a shorter shaft.

[MegaWatty]

Try a higher loft driver, say 12*, with a shorter shaft.
Just what Wishon said in the interview with Rod Morri. GN, have you listened to it? Superb advice in there!

[Golfnut]

Try a higher loft driver, say 12*, with a shorter shaft.

Won't that make the flight even higher just????

[adlo]

Try a higher loft driver, say 12*, with a shorter shaft.
This solution is a winner.

GN, the HMOI shaft suits you. You are hitting fairways and controlling the fade. You'd be best throwing it in a 12-13 degree driver. The Sumo Lucky 13 is a bargain and there are some cheap Adams BUL 12 or 15 degree drivers out there.

[adlo]

Won't that make the flight even higher just????


This solution is a winner.

GN, the HMOI shaft suits you. You are hitting fairways and controlling the fade. You'd be best throwing it in a 12-13 degree driver. The Sumo Lucky 13 is a bargain and there are some cheap Adams BUL 12 or 15 degree drivers out there.

And I should say, your ball flight is FAR from too high. It is mid height. You want MORE height to get MORE carry. Your enemy is primarily flipping causing a weak ballflight.

[Golfnut]

Again, the swing changes have been made since Champs so no one has really seen my current ball flight off the driver....hopefully you'll get to see it at SH Adlo and give me your thoughts then.
If what you saw is described as medium than the current flight is high imo....like I said I don't mind the height cause I know I need it for carry, I just don't like the trajectory.

[Pieface]

How far are you hitting driver and 3W GN?

[adlo]

Again, the swing changes have been made since Champs so no one has really seen my current ball flight off the driver....hopefully you'll get to see it at SH Adlo and give me your thoughts then.
If what you saw is described as medium than the current flight is high imo....like I said I don't mind the height cause I know I need it for carry, I just don't like the trajectory.
All good GN, if we are grouped together I'll give you my opinion, or alternatively idgg or TF would no doubt be happy to discuss this as well.

The issue of ball flight is a personal one. However, generally, the more height the better as long as you aren't ballooning. At your swing speed and ball speed, ballooning is unlikely to be the issue. However, another option is having an "OzGolf" range session at SH and you can hit a heap of different drivers and shafts from the rest of us and see what the results are like.

I would drop any coin on a driver or new shaft until you can do that.

[MegaWatty]

Or one of these. They are an amazing 12* that really get the ball out there.

Trust me! I own one!

Geek Golf: Dot Com This (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Geek-Golf-DOT-450cc-12-Head-/200420192434?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Golf_Clubmaking_Products_US&hash=item2ea9f970b2)

[Golfnut]

How far are you hitting driver and 3W GN?

Driver - averaging 200-220m depending how close to middle I catch it....I do manage to get the odd one out there a few times a round too.
3w about 190 off the deck, 200m off the tee.

[Golfnut]

All good GN, if we are grouped together I'll give you my opinion, or alternatively idgg or TF would no doubt be happy to discuss this as well.

The issue of ball flight is a personal one. However, generally, the more height the better as long as you aren't ballooning. At your swing speed and ball speed, ballooning is unlikely to be the issue. However, another option is having an "OzGolf" range session at SH and you can hit a heap of different drivers and shafts from the rest of us and see what the results are like.

I would drop any coin on a driver or new shaft until you can do that.

I like the sound of the range session....had a couple of hits with an FTiz on thursday with 60g Voodoo in it and that went pretty well but the noise was horrendous, my ears were ringing after the second bash.

[Pieface]

Driver - averaging 200-220m depending how close to middle I catch it....I do manage to get the odd one out there a few times a round too.
3w about 190 off the deck, 200m off the tee.

Not huge mate (pretty similar to me I would guess) but perfectly adequate to score on most holes needing driver if you can put the ball out around 400m in two shots. Are you sure there aren't more shots on offer by sticking your approaches closer and working on U&D chipping?

If you are keeping in play off the tee with a consistent shape I don't know why you want to mess with one of your strengths...

Still a whack on the range at SH does sound like a bunch of fun :D

[idgolfguy]

There's a fair bit of advice here from many people with different perceptions. However, all are along the same thoughts.
1. Don't spend anymore until you get your swing sorted,
2. Get your fundamentals in order,
3. You're not going to buy yourself a better long game,
4. At 200m, a different shaft in your driver is not going to make any difference. You will lose distance with a lower ball flight.
5. If you're hitting your 3w at around 190m, and your driver is consistently only 10m more or so, your mechanics need work.
6. If your driver is to high, you shouldn't be playing a fade (or cut in the words of Zeus). Get your swing sorted so that you're playing draws off your driver. That will give you distance and lower ball flight you so crave.
7. If you want keep playing fades, you need to get a higher lofted driver and softer shaft to maximise the hang time. The clubs that MW are talking about are perfect as they would help reduce your degree of your fades. Remember that a 10m fade from your target line is 33-35ft off where you aimed.

Those that hit fades off the tee do it out of choice not chance. It is for control and to reduce the out of control left ball. They also generally still pick where the ball will land.

If you can get your mechanics sorted so that you can hit draws you will get the ball flight you so desire.

At your swing speed, you should be able to get that ball further. You're just not sure how just yet.

In saying all this, perhaps you just want to buy more kit? If that is the case, do as your heart desires. We can all understand that.

[idgolfguy]

I can bring you some drivers except that mine are all slightly open and a little on the stiff side.

I have an Adams 10.5 with a regular shaft with movable weights you can try as well.

However, you'd be better learning how to chip and pitch and getting your ball flight correct at said range session.

[MegaWatty]

I'd just like to agree with ID on the chipping practice. Zeus will also agree here I'm sure. We've all been taught to different extents under the same coach and it's where you can learn some amazing fundamentals. Hands in front of the ball!!!

I would also like to disagree with ID.

Point number 3 above is totally and utterly ridiculous. I have never heard such a silly thing in all my time in golf. EVER. ;)

[Golfnut]

Not huge mate (pretty similar to me I would guess) but perfectly adequate to score on most holes needing driver if you can put the ball out around 400m in two shots. Are you sure there aren't more shots on offer by sticking your approaches closer and working on U&D chipping?

From what others tell me my short game is pretty good PF, which has probably been a product of poor or inconsistent 2nd shots in the past which are now slowly improving.......but as most would agree hitting a shorter iron into a green is a lot easier than longer ones.



If you are keeping in play off the tee with a consistent shape I don't know why you want to mess with one of your strengths...

True but like I said, it's more the trajectory that I'm whinging about, I get very little roll-out off the driver which I think is robbing me a distance.

[MegaWatty]

BTW.

Adlo.

He's broken his 'unofficial' handicap several times by his own admission above. Surely he's due a shot or two chop! Hell, I just copped one 'officially'.

[Golfnut]

I can bring you some drivers except that mine are all slightly open and a little on the stiff side.

I have an Adams 10.5 with a regular shaft with movable weights you can try as well.

That would be appreciated ID...cheers.


However, you'd be better learning how to chip and pitch and getting your ball flight correct at said range session.

This is the strongest part of my game but I take your point.

[Golfnut]

BTW.

Adlo.

He's broken his 'unofficial' handicap several times by his own admission above. Surely he's due a shot or two chop! Hell, I just copped one 'officially'.

Mate the tracks I'm playing hardly compare to those we play in Ozgolf days.....but I'm happy to take a chop if I wipe the floor with ya ;)

[MegaWatty]

Next Friday might be our last chance. How you looking then?

[Golfnut]

Though we were doing this at SH........but Friday from midday onwards is looking quite good if you want to get this done.

[MegaWatty]

Sounds pretty good. I'm not even close to 100% for Secret Harbour.

12:30ish at Grozzy's sounds good.

[Golfnut]

At this stage sounds good.......Remind why we're choosing Gozzy's again?????

[MegaWatty]

Ease of access. Neutral. Close enough to home for both of us?

[idgolfguy]

Can I join in for a hit if I can get the time off?

[MegaWatty]

Can I join in for a hit if I can get the time off?
No

[MegaWatty]

Whoops. Wrong word!

Yes!

Of course you can mate! :)

[Pieface]

Cool GN...I'm certainly not adverse to more distance :lol:

Have you mucked around with different balls to see if that makes any difference too? A few sleeves is less $$ than new crubs.

[TourFit]

Golfnut...balls won't make much difference, trust me. Their more about feel, and the ball you choose should be more about the SHORT game rather than the long game.

At your handicap, 200-220m drive is perfectly OK...so if you're not scioring then it's something else!!! Trajectory when referring to roll-out is over-rated...what you should be looking for is the correct balance of carry distance to roll. YOU ARE THE BIGGEST LIMITING FACTOR TO HOW FAR YOU HIT IT...your goal should be to hit it to that distance mpre accurately and more consistently. That is where a shorter driver with more loft will help.

The single most important thing in the game of golf is...."TO HIT THE BALL IN THE CENTRE OF THE FACE, WITH A SQUARE FACE"...on every club, putter to driver. Thus, you tend to get as good a result with the 3W because it is shorter AND it has more loft (your OPTIMUM flight is actually closer to being realised with a well struck 3W than your current driver).

Forget the ho's who tell you that you need a different driver...I sell clubs for a living and I can tell you that I'd feel guilty trying to sell you one OR a new fancy shaft for that matter, because what you need is to understand that the driver is the hardest club in the bag to be consistent with (mainly due to length and lack of loft). It is about technique and practice for you at this stage...

If the driver alone was the problem then you'd hardly EVER hit a good shot...so think of the BEST drive you've hit with it. THAT'S YOUR POTENTIAL !!! Now you need to figure out HOW you hit that shot and whether you can repeat it. That's the hard part. Don't think that your driver head or shaft is inferior...it is a quality head made of the latest materials, as is the shaft. The improvements you'll get by changing either of them at this stage is going to be minimal (borrow another one for a week or two and see if I'm right!!)

You need to concentrate on the finer points of the game...learning to score, taking your medicine, sensible strategy based on your handicap, not biting off more than you can chew etc etc etc. I will say that Johnny Canuck would be a good guy to look at. He hits some ordinary shots, but still recovers and scores (sometimes with miraculous shots). He is also VERY good at making a shot when he absolutely has too (usually when there's money on the line!). His focus and mental concentration at that point is something you can learn from...just don't try and emulate the shots yet...just learn the process of what you CAN & CAN'T DO.

[Zeusgolf]

Golfnut...balls won't make much difference, trust me. Their more about feel, and the ball you choose should be more about the SHORT game rather than the long game.

At your handicap, 200-220m drive is perfectly OK...so if you're not scioring then it's something else!!! Trajectory when referring to roll-out is over-rated...what you should be looking for is the correct balance of carry distance to roll. YOU ARE THE BIGGEST LIMITING FACTOR TO HOW FAR YOU HIT IT...your goal should be to hit it to that distance mpre accurately and more consistently. That is where a shorter driver with more loft will help.

The single most important thing in the game of golf is...."TO HIT THE BALL IN THE CENTRE OF THE FACE, WITH A SQUARE FACE"...on every club, putter to driver. Thus, you tend to get as good a result with the 3W because it is shorter AND it has more loft (your OPTIMUM flight is actually closer to being realised with a well struck 3W than your current driver).

Forget the ho's who tell you that you need a different driver...I sell clubs for a living and I can tell you that I'd feel guilty trying to sell you one OR a new fancy shaft for that matter, because what you need is to understand that the driver is the hardest club in the bag to be consistent with (mainly due to length and lack of loft). It is about technique and practice for you at this stage...

If the driver alone was the problem then you'd hardly EVER hit a good shot...so think of the BEST drive you've hit with it. THAT'S YOUR POTENTIAL !!! Now you need to figure out HOW you hit that shot and whether you can repeat it. That's the hard part. Don't think that your driver head or shaft is inferior...it is a quality head made of the latest materials, as is the shaft. The improvements you'll get by changing either of them at this stage is going to be minimal (borrow another one for a week or two and see if I'm right!!)

You need to concentrate on the finer points of the game...learning to score, taking your medicine, sensible strategy based on your handicap, not biting off more than you can chew etc etc etc. I will say that Johnny Canuck would be a good guy to look at. He hits some ordinary shots, but still recovers and scores (sometimes with miraculous shots). He is also VERY good at making a shot when he absolutely has too (usually when there's money on the line!). His focus and mental concentration at that point is something you can learn from...just don't try and emulate the shots yet...just learn the process of what you CAN & CAN'T DO.

I'm amazed at how much better I play when Canuck is in my group....

[BrisVegas]

Swing a bit slower and try to hit a running draw.

[razaar]

Hey GN, do you by chance hit down on your driver? The modern drivers are designed for an upwards or level hit with high launch and low spin. A downwards strike will neutralize any benefits of the 460 cc head. If this happens to be your situation, the experts recommend a smaller head with more loft + a heavier shaft 70 -80 gms with a softer tip. The smaller heads handle a downwards strike better, the softer tip gives a higher launch while the heavier shaft has less spin than a light shaft.

[TourFit]

Ray...definately an over the top move, sometimes with too much transition to the left foot too early. So...YES!!!!

[MegaWatty]

Get a 9015d 10.5*. Hate it. Then sell it to me head only. ;)

Or call Zig for shaft advice! His thread in ISG with all the shafts he has tried was ultra impressive!!!

[Dazza]

Or call Zig for shaft advice! His thread in ISG with all the shafts he has tried was ultra impressive!!!

Was it Zigwah, Uber_ho or jarrod07au? :smt046

Only a matter of time before he's buying his own clubs again.:smt014

[Yossarian]

Postage from shep to shep should be quite reasonable.

[Golfnut]

Hey GN, do you by chance hit down on your driver? The modern drivers are designed for an upwards or level hit with high launch and low spin. A downwards strike will neutralize any benefits of the 460 cc head. If this happens to be your situation, the experts recommend a smaller head with more loft + a heavier shaft 70 -80 gms with a softer tip. The smaller heads handle a downwards strike better, the softer tip gives a higher launch while the heavier shaft has less spin than a light shaft.

Yes, Raz....I hit down on everything so I imagine I do similar for the driver, not so sure with the swing changes I've made though.......I've started hanging back a bit more for my 3w, I think it was your's or Virge's advice to keep the head from moving too much lateraly and feel like your swinging past yourself. Would hanging back on the driver more help here too?

[idgolfguy]

There is more happening in GN's swing than he realizes. Giving him swing tips without seeing his swing his like 6 blind men describing an elephant from different angles.

[razaar]

Yes, Raz....I hit down on everything so I imagine I do similar for the driver, not so sure with the swing changes I've made though.......I've started hanging back a bit more for my 3w, I think it was your's or Virge's advice to keep the head from moving too much lateraly and feel like your swinging past yourself. Would hanging back on the driver more help here too?

I don't think having "hanging back" is a good thought to have on the forward swing as it relates to a lateral movement. The experts agree that the centre of your swing (the base of your neck or top of the spine) should stay centred from when the downswing starts. It can move backwards during the back-swing but it has to remain in the same spot it finds during the transition from back-swing to down-swing and remain there until the right shoulder pulls it forward past the ball position and well into the follow-through. A good swing thought is to think uncoil around your top of the swing position.

[Golfnut]

I mean "Hanging back" relative to my usual early transition to the left......so this could mean I'm uncoiling better hitting my 3w and hybrids. I'll take note of this while hitting driver.

[Pieface]

Virge

I have been hitting my woods a bit better trying to think of uncoiling or rotating instead of a hip-slide forwards on the downswing...

Still pretty shite but better :lol:

[idgolfguy]

Your head has to move as it is connected to your neck. GN coiling back needs work as there is a lateral shift last time we played together.