Driver Shaft in a Fairway wood

[petethepilot]

Anybody got experience with putting a driver shaft in a F/W head. Butt trimmed from 43 1/2'' by about an inch. Other than maybe playing slightly stiffer, and slightly lowering the ball flight it should be OK, shouldn't it!??:roll:

Thanks,

Pete

p.s. I'm too old to do a topic search!

[adlo]

Pete, I have done it.

Was no dramas. Just found I needed more weight in the shaft when I started swinging a bit harder. So, it worked a treat for a while.

[zigwah]

I'm not totally sure, but i think you will start off with a higher ball flight, so then you tip it until you get the desired ballflight

[virge666]

A driver shaft IS a Fwy wood shaft tipped an inch.

All Fwy shafts are driver shafts.

Sorry mate

By not tipping the driver shaft - you are just losing a flex. So a Stiff driver shaft is a reg 3 wood shaft or an A Flex 5 wood.

Easy

[3oneday]

In other words, tip it an inch and it will play the same flex it was in the driver.

[backintheswing]

Pete have you already butt trimmed it? I would be tip trimming to go into a 3 wood.

[AndyP]

In other words, tip it an inch and it will play the same flex it was in the driver.Which is exactly what I am about to do.

[petethepilot]

I'm getting Freddies Diamania Kai'li which he has at 43.5" X Flex(Japan) and putting it in a 3wood 14.5* head. My 3 woods currently play 42.5" hence my Question.

Thanks for the replies!

[TheNuclearOne]

Very light for a FW shaft but works for some.

[TourFit]

Well...

...if you want the shaft to play slightly softer than the designated X flex, tip it 1/2" and then from the butt to get your desired length.

If you want it to play quite a bit softer than it's flex, butt trim only (as stated by Virge).

And if you want it at the X flex tip it 1" and then cut to length.

HOWEVER, because of the size difference between a driver and a 3 wood the hosel depth etc may not even out...what I mean is if you insert the shaft 'dry' into a driver head and mark off a point anywhere on the shaft, when you insert it into a 3W that point may not line up the same !!! What that means is that the 43.5" shaft may equate to a 45" driver, but not necessarily be the same calculation method in a 3W.

Try inserting it first in your head of choice and see what the FINAL length is with the shaft you have...and THEN work out what needs to be cut from where!!! It's a hell of a shaft to risk stuffing up due to a mistake. Measure twice THEN CUT ONCE!!!

[petethepilot]

Sage advice TF!:D

[markTHEblake]

Anybody got experience with putting a driver shaft in a F/W head.

just watch the weight - might be a bit light depending on what the original was.

If you have all the details i can email you a swingweight calculator. (its not simple)

[TourFit]

MTB is right...especially if you play the 3W at 42.5"

Having said that it IS a Diamana Kai'Li 70 isn't it???

It's gonna depend on the head weight and the grip you use. (I'd suggest a light grip such as a GP Multi Compound if you need to increase swingweight initially!).

Otherwise start the club at 43" and see what the swingweight is, and IF it is over your desired number then butt trim a little at a time (1/8") until you reach where you want. If it is under weight and then you shorten more, then you start to get into more complicated weighting issues.

[Daggs]

Ive given up cant find what suits me so im going to fit the same steel shaft thats in my irons to my farways affordable and cant be any worse.

The way i seeit now, years ago people started playin golf there wasnt all this tecnolegy.... Blades, Persimmon or steel drivers small heads steel shafts = mid to low h/caps in comes the tecnology out go the h/caps and the dollars ... Get your driver right and go steel the rest .

I know im going to get a blousin for sayin that but shit how much coin do the oem"s think we got. You buy a club for 400 and spend 1500 to find the right shaft X 3 or 4 (clubs) dont know about most but i cant afford it but i want to play the game to my best abillity(wich aint good) but im tryin. So im goin now with new heads and old school shafts and hopin i get results .

I mean they say they make stuff based on the average golfer BULL SHIT they make stuff the average golfer thinks they can use... OH MY GOD could go on for ever .

Topurfit and others please dont take this to heart as i dont have access to the likes of yourself who from what i have read do a mighty job of sorting punters out.
But from a novice who takes it all in im gettin very disillusioned and frustrated and althoutgh im going to use modern heads im going back to steel shafts and see how i go.

[Daves]

My Fairways have the same steel shafts as my irons Daggs. They work very well for me. I know I lose a little distance but I have gained consistency and accuracy.

[virge666]

Topurfit and others please dont take this to heart as i dont have access to the likes of yourself who from what i have read do a mighty job of sorting punters out.
But from a novice who takes it all in im gettin very disillusioned and frustrated and althoutgh im going to use modern heads im going back to steel shafts and see how i go.

Always worth a try - just go for 90-95gr steel shafts.

DG Superlites should do the trick... then if it still doesn;t work, drop me or TF a line and see if we can source you some cheap pullouts to get you on track. All either us will need is a vid of you swing from front on and a couple of Q's to get a good guess.

I have a garage full of shafts and about 200 brand new out dated UST / Accra shafts that you can get your hands on.

Easy

[Captain Nemo]

Virge,
Any stiff ones i could try in my r9 17*?

[petethepilot]

Daggs,
I had a session on a launch monitor and a good club fitter for $50. His recommendations have been spot on. See an expert and avoid the guessing (and cost)

Pete

[markTHEblake]

You buy a club for 400 and spend 1500 to find the right shaft X 3 or 4 (clubs) dont know about most but i cant afford it

There are good graphite shafts around that dont cost $100+ each. You just gotta look outside the box.