I didnt buy it for the shiny finish. I bought it because I wanted the head regardless, its not my fault the Pilot only had the shiny limited edition version.
I didnt buy it for the shiny finish. I bought it because I wanted the head regardless, its not my fault the Pilot only had the shiny limited edition version.
Still not playing enough GolfLink | Slightly less terrible stats brought to you by Golfshot - F: 57%, GIR: 23%, UD: 14%, P: 34. Wow, improvement! | Nickent brand ho or tightarse? You be the judge!
[img]http://i.imgur.com/4Y4Q0jZ.jpg[/img]
mate i have no idea but its true,
i had one of the originals that came out and a non IP one at the same time ihad to ace it bec it was flying all over the place in the wet
had the IP with a borona diamana so it wasnt the shaft , the diff was huge, kinda sloppy low and nude. but when it was dry it was unreal thing had an extra spring in its tail.
srixon zr-30 9.5* - diamana X 70s
kasco fd 12.8 *- diamana stinger 70s
royal collection 304p 15* - diamana X 70s
royal collection sfd 3 19* - crazy black ut xs
yamaha 2009 forged 5/pw - NS prototype 2g18s
yonex shinagawa 50/56*- ns super peening orange
fourteen mt-28 60* - ns 950s
odyssey 2 -ball exo
badly missing, links.
The only way to discount the shaft is to try other shafts and get some strike data in moist/wet conditions. It boils down to smash factor, clubface stability, attack angle and spin.
If the clubface through the impact zone is unstable, examples are toe is moving several mph faster than the heel or vice versa or a flip release where the left hand stops to square the clubface, then wet conditions will magnify the error. Golf is a mind game, so if we blame the clubhead its not our fault.
Consciousness and awareness - awareness is being aware of what is happening and being aware of what is happening within ourselves while we are conscious. Where did I leave my glasses?
My 101 is in room 101.
Bag Of Tricks
Epon AF 103 / Basileus AAA
Zodia 801 3 / Basileus B Series
Zodia UT / Basileus UT
Buchi DI / Shimada Tour
Epon SUS / Shimada Tour
Crazy Toyoshima / Shimada NW
Yamada Kamakura
So the S300s in my Cleveland 588 combo set have Japan Spec on the shaft labels.
Anyone aware of what the differences may be between these and "run of the mill" S300s? I don't have anything to compare step patterns or the like with...
Not sure if this helps or not..
http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/...-japan-or-usa/
I kid you not, but that appears to be the guy I bought them off. The 5 and 6 iron MBs I have are exactly as he describes, right down to the missing paint fill in the 6 iron.
It sort of helps though...was curious whether there might have been a difference in the shaft itself that amounted to more than it being assembled in Japan.
Japanese spec usually means softer in the flex, sometimes also slightly lighter. Probably more mid flex between R & S. I have an Adams Driver with a Japanese Spec Aldila shaft, that is more A flex than the Reg it is marked as.
You can check the step pattern against this;
http://www.truetemper.com/wp-content...R-WEB-PAGE.pdf
Wrong thread.
Last edited by Hatchman; 4th October 2015 at 03:12 PM.
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